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The majestic Eiffel Tower

November 26, 2011 by Valerie Sutter, Director, The French Traveler Leave a Comment

Group tours to Paris inevitably include a must-see visit to the Eiffel Tower, synonymous with the city of Paris. It is the most visited eiffel towerlandmark in the world with nearly 7,000,000 people from every corner of the globe each year. Designed by Gustave Eiffel, who won the bid out of 107 bidders, and built in 1889 for the Universal Exposition to commemorate the centenary of the French Revolution, the iron-clad structure attests to its roots in infrastructure technology during the 19th century. It stands a whopping 324 meters high (1063 feet), with three levels, at a total weight of 22,000,000 pounds (10,100 tons).

A 360 degree, panoramic view of Paris is seen from the Eiffel Tower. The tower is illuminated in the evenings, and it sparkles with breathtaking vibrancy for 10 minutes every hour on the hour until 1:00 am each evening.

Each of the three levels offers a slightly different perspective overlooking Paris, each with a different admission price. The first level is 190 feet above the ground, the second- 380 feet, and the third- 900 feet. The first level is open and currently undergoing renovation, while boasting boutiques, restaurants, and even a cinema showcasing the history of the Eiffel tower. For visitors with children aged 6-10, a kid-friendly host named Gus helps these little tourists to learn about the Tower’s history. The second level offers 3 souvenir shops, and places to eat, including the well-known, modern and chic, “Jules Verne” restaurant. Reservations highly recommended. The third level shows a wax-figure reconstruction of Eiffel’s office. At the summit there is also a champagne bar, and interesting facts about La Tour Eiffel, such as how much paint is used every seven years to repaint the tower (60 tons).

The best views from the tower can be seen after dark, when the City of Lights shows its finery. Views of the city are often clearer and better defined without the haze of the daylight, and the lines of people waiting to go up are less long. Overlooking the Iena Bridge on one side and the beautiful Champs de Mars on the other, the Tower is the background setting to the most beautiful display of fireworks

Fireworks near the Eiffel Tower

Fireworks near the Eiffel Tower

display every national holiday, the 14th of July. A stroll along the Seine River invariably keeps the Tower in view. One of the nicest images of it is from the Mirabeau Bridge, where once can capture both the Tower and the miniature Statue of Liberty, which is posted on the Grenelle Bridge.

The Eiffel Tower is an incredible feat of architecture. Initially expected to last a mere 20 years, it has stood for more than 120 years, and has become the symbol of France/ Hours: every day from 9am to 11pm, and until 12 midnight during the summer. Metro stops: Bir-Hakeim, or Alma; Trocadero; RER-C Champs de Mars. Take a virtual tour HERE.

 

Filed Under: French customs & culture

The Elysee Palace: presidential grandeur in Paris

November 11, 2011 by Valerie Sutter, Director, The French Traveler 1 Comment

The Elysee Palace: presidential grandeur in Paris

Wondering where the French president lives and works? Right in the middle of Paris, in the Elysée Palace. In 1718, a town house was constructed on a plot of land in the then-sleepy area of Paris known as the Faubourg St-Honoré to serve as the residence of the Count of Evreux. Built and decorated between 1718 and 1722, the house was designed and laid out in accordance with the prevailing principles of contemporary architectural theory. At his death in 1753, the Comte left a town house that was admired by all his contemporaries, one of whom called it the finest country home in the neighbourhood of Paris. Passed on through the ages to various owners and occupiers, regal, powerful, socially connected and revolutionary, the palace has been transformed, redecorated, remodeled, modernized. In 1848, it was designed the official residence of the French president. Located at 55, rue du Faubourg St-Honore, the palace boasts beautiful private apartments, a presidential office, a wine cellar, a private florist, and magnificent English-style gardens. While it is not possible to tour the presidential palace, one can peek into the courtyard through the open gates on Wednesday mornings when the entire cabinet visits. If you’d like to get an idea of what the president eats, baker Rene Gerard St. Ouen brings fresh bread to the president twice daily; his boulangerie is located at 111 Boulevard Haussmann (metro Miromesnil, line 9). Take a marvelous virtual tour HERE of this elegant tribute to French architechture; you’ll see the entire palace getting ready for a president dinner. Spectaculaire!

 

 

Filed Under: French customs & culture

Outside Paris: easy day trips from the capital

November 4, 2011 by Valerie Sutter, Director, The French Traveler Leave a Comment

Away from those Madding Crowds!, Part I

We all know and love Paris’ main attractions, but just what is there to do outside of the City of Lights? The list is quite long:

  • ECOUEN: French history buffs will want to visit its castle which is home to the Musée National de la Renaissance. (This museum does for the Renaissance what Cluny does for the Middle Ages).

Built by the influential Anne de Montmorency, the château is one of the most beautiful built in France during the Renaissance and one of the few to have been preserved without major damage over the centuries and through the wars. It retains some of its original decorations (painted fireplaces, ceremonial paving, ceilings and friezes, etc). After your visit, stroll through the castle’s beautiful wooded grounds and then have lunch in the quaint little town. Ecouen is located only 19 kms north of Paris; trains from Gare du Nord.

  • BEAUVAIS: For those of you who can’t get enough of gigantic gothic cathedrals don’t miss Beauvais’ impressive Saint-Pierre Cathedral which was initially built so high that it collapsed – twice.

Construction began in 1225 and finally finished in 1548, with intermittant stops-and-starts due to the ambitious height of the central tower. Inside this architectural wonder you’ll find another curiosity: the biggest clock you’ve ever seen (the size of a small house), built in the mid-nineteenth century. Beauvais is about an hour north of Paris in the department of Picardie. Trains from the Gard du Nord.

  • CHANTILLY: Another must-see on your outside-Paris itinerary, Chantilly is half an hour north of Paris in the department of the Oise.


Renaissance lovers will appreciate the magnificent Condé Museum, and the formal gardens designed by Le Notre are loved by all. Horse-lovers won’t want to miss France’s Museum of the Horse also located here, and will enjoy seeing the training grounds, racetrack, horse stables, and other equestrian delights. The 1985 James Bond movie A View to Kill was filmed here, as well as the 1962 film The Longest Day (John Wayne) and in 1994, Jefferson in Paris. Trains from the Gard du Nord.

So, the next time you’re in Paris, be sure to venture out and discover some of France’s hidden gems just north of the capital.

Filed Under: French towns & villages, Towns & villages

The new Orsay Museum in Paris

October 31, 2011 by Valerie Sutter, Director, The French Traveler Leave a Comment

The new Orsay Museum in Paris

Step inside the Musée d’Orsay and you may just wonder where you are. Le Nouvel Orsay has been the talk of Paris lately. So, after 18months of renovations, what exactly is new about it?

  • More gallery space. Most of the new space comes from additional levels built inside the Amont pavilion. A welcome change for anyone used to elbowing their way through the crowds. New works will be brought out from storage, especially from Orsay’s decorative and graphic arts collection.
  • New color, new floors, updated lighting. The white walls have mostly been replaced by blues, grays, and greens, and hardwood now covers the previously stone floors. Plus, with its warmer lighting you may think you’re in a living room rather than a museum. Overall, the New Orsay has a cozier, more intimate feel. Less, in fact, like a train station.
  • New, more thought-provoking presentations. “We will put the artworks into context with other disciplines: history, literature, music, even philosophy and psychoanalysis,” says Museum director Guy Cogeval. Look for similarities, make connections. You’ll find Rodin sculptures, for example, in the Impressionists Gallery.
  • Bigger cafe! The Café de l’Horloge was refurnished and expanded. More room for hungry crowds and souvenir shoppers.
  • And that’s not all. More changes are to come, beginning in 2012 when renovations will begin again in the smaller galleries; projected finish date: 2015.

One thing about the Nouvel Orsay is NOT new, however: its October 20th opening date was delayed a week by a workers’ strike !

Filed Under: French customs & culture

Vincent Van Gogh & Provence

October 16, 2011 by Valerie Sutter, Director, The French Traveler Leave a Comment

Travel in the steps of the Impressionists as you roam throughout Provence. You’ll be struck by the many reminders of Vincent Van Gogh in Arles and nearby St-Remy-de-Provence. Many of his most famous paintings stem from his time in and around this area, where he lived from 1888 to 1889: his bright sunflowers, his curious bedroom in Arles, the atmospheric Night Café with its green billiard table and glowing lamps, as well as his famous Starry Night paintings (Starry Night, and Starry Night over the Rhone). He painted Arles’ narrow, cobblestone streets, its marketplaces and cafés, and the yellow house where he lived for a short time with his friend and fellow-painter, Paul Gaugin. The rich countryside of Provence also inspired him and he painted neatly-tilled cornfields and fertile valleys, orchards in bloom, sunsets near Arles, and cypresses in the moonlight, all in deep, rich oils of yellow, orange, green and blue.

 

Van Gogh suffered all his life from bouts of insanity – the people of Arles nicknamed him “le fou-roux” (the redheaded madman) – and it was indeed here in Provence that he cut off part of his right ear after a violent argument with Gaugin. “Starry Night” and several other well-known paintings and self-portraits (one showing his bandaged ear) were done when he was at the asylum in Saint-Remy, twenty miles from Arles. In the summer of 1890 Van Gogh died from a self-inflicted gunshot wound and is buried in Auvers-sur-Oise, near Paris. His brother Theo reported Vincent’s last words as, “The sadness will last forever.” In spite of his dark and tragic end, Van Gogh should be remembered as his friend Gaugin once painted him in a portrait entitled: “Van Gogh, the Painter of Sunflowers” (1888).

For more about the life and the art of this tragic genius, much of whose life was spent in France in the company of the Impressionists, read the excellent biographical novel by Irving Stone: Lust for Life. You can also visit his room at the sanitorium in St Rémy which is a poignant reminder of his suffering.

 

Filed Under: French customs & culture

Off you go on your Great Road Trip in France!

October 14, 2011 by Valerie Sutter, Director, The French Traveler Leave a Comment

Off you go on your Great Road Trip in France!

So now you’ve rented your car and are ready for The Great French Road Trip.

Some tips to help you:

– Cell phone use in hand while driving is prohibited in France, although speaker phone, Bluetooth are permited.

– Speed is strictly limited in France and controlled by cameras, some hidden, some obvious. Even with a rental car you can be charged with a ticket and sometimes fined on the spot.

– Alcohol levels in the blood are illegal above 0.5% (one drink).

– Rond-points (roundabouts) give priority to cars that are already in the rond-point; you will be notified of this as you approach with signs that say either “Céder le passage” or “Vous n’avez pas la priorité.” However, there are a few rond-points that are actually the opposite, such as the Etoile in Paris, in which case the priorité goes to cars that are entering the rond-point and those that are already in the rond-point need to stop and let them through (priorité à droite).

– Priorité à droite takes a while to get used to. Even if you are driving on the main road, you may need to slow down and stop at every little side road on your right to let that traffic through. These intersections are generally marked with signs with an X and priorité à droite painted on the road. If you are at an intersection where the lights don’t work because of a power failure, then the rule becomespriorité à droite.

– Autoroute: Drive in the right or middle lane, as the left lanes are only for passing. If you have an accident or break down, dial 18 (the firemen, les sapeurs-pompiers) and/or the 15 (le SAMU: Service d’Aide Medicale Urgence; the paramedics, ambulance). If you don’t have a cell phone, there is an orange SOS phone about every 2 kilometers where you can call for help. Rest stops, called aires de repos, usually have at least one store and some (free) bathrooms. Some have restaurants and gas stations; gas is more expensive there than at a local supermarket..

– Toll Booths: Expect to make frequent stops to take a ticket and pay the tolls. Avoid toll booths marked with a yellow T (this is for those with prepaid passes). Pull into the lanes with a green arrow if you want to pay in cash or by debit card, or you can pull into lanes marked with CB or a tiny hand holding a card if you want to pay with your debit card in the machine. Note that only European credit cards with the little chip work; you cannot use an American credit card in these machines.

– Blue signs vs Green signs: the integrated European highway system is indicated by blue autoroute signs; the green sign indicate a national route, which often wind through towns and have traffic lights.

 

Filed Under: French customs & culture, French towns & villages

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