Thinking of visiting Provence? Then mark your maps for a stopover in Avignon. Located in the south of France in the department of the Vauclause, Avignon is a beautiful city surrounded by medieval ramparts in the heart of Provence. During the fourteenth century, it became the residence of the Popes. As a result of the Great Schism—the great division between the Roman Catholic Church and the Eastern Orthodox Church—the Roman Church re-established itself in Avignon, and to recognize this fact, Le Palais des Papes was constructed in 1335, under Pope Benedict XII and his successor, Pope Clement VI. Now recognized as a UNESCO world heritage site, it holds 15,000 square meters of living space, making it the largest Gothic palace in the world.

A visit to the Palais is a must. The magnificence of yesteryear is felt throughout the entire palace, although today empty, but the guides revive history in the empty rooms and recount the lustrous meals, the costly guards, and the elegance of the papal reign. The cost of admission: 10.50€, reduced: 8.50€. Tours and cultural events are offered throughout the year.

The city of Avignon is surrounded by ramparts, built since 1355 to protect and fortify the city from mercenary assaults. There is no cost to see them. They provide a beautiful view of the city, and add to its intoxicating medieval charm.

Another UNESCO world heritage site found in Avignon is the famous Pont d’Avignon, also known as the Saint Bénezet Bridge which overlooks the Rhone River. Built in the twelfth century, it collapsed several times due to the flooding of the river. The bridge underwent several reconstructions, but a flood in the 17th century finally put the bridge out of commission. Now only a few of the bridge’s arches remain today. The famous children’s song “Sur le Pont d’Avignon” references this bridge, providing its listeners with the historical and cultural significance, since the Middle Ages. To visit the Pont d’Avignon, it costs 3.50€ as a reduced admission, 4.50€ for a regular admission.

Amongst the other landmarks to see in Avignon is the beautiful Cathédrale Notre Dame des Doms, constructed in 1037. Since then, the cathedral has undergone much reconstruction and expansion, the last of which took place near the end of the 17th century. Admission is free to the general public. The Musée Calvet (the museum of art and archeology) and the Musée Angladon (more contemporary art, impressionist art) are also well worth seeing.

Host to one of the most innovative and successful theatre festivals in the world every summer in the month of July), Avignon has much to offer to its visitors. Its charm, history, culture, mild climate, and welcoming people make this city a must-see while traveling in France.

La Grand’Place Lille

Expecting a drab, chilly northern city on my first trip to Lille this summer, I was delighted instead to find a colorful metropolis filled with lively, cheerful people and more cultural activities than many French cities to the south. I was bowled over by the friendliness of the waiters in the restaurants, the staff at the hotel at which I stayed, the people on the bus, the curators at the museums I visited, the beauty of the architecture. There’s an overwhelming exuberance in this city that permeates all activities and fills the visitor with a pleasant sense of acceptance. Quelle surprise!

Take, for example, the Vieille Bourse, a seventeenth-century building in the heart of town. Beautifully sculpted and colorfully decorated, this former commercial exchange built in 1653 is actually composed several small houses constructed around a central open patio originally designed to afford a calm and protected area for the financiers to conduct business away from the elements. Modernized today with shops and restaurants, it was the scene one Sunday afternoon in August of a vast collection of books and art. Couples wandering the interior patio leisurely browsed the stalls and thumbed through the various books, some rare collections, some posters, old engravings and more….a bibliophile’s dream. The very same patio later on that evening had turned into a Milonga: tango lovers, both amateurs and experienced, dressed accordingly in elegant outfits and high heels,danced under the stars to the cherished tango music of the DJ, who blasted out old favorites of Carlos Gardel and Alberto Castillo from his station in the corner.

After decades of slow and painful decline from the destruction wrought in the area by two world wars, Lille has made a comeback in recent years, thanks to an urban remodeling project called Eurolille that began in 1991. The Euralille Centre was opened in 1994, and the remodeled district is now full of parks and modern buildings containing offices, shops and apartments. Lille was named European Capital of Culture in 2004. Its very central location in northern France makes it easy to reach by high-speed train: Brussels is only 30 minutes away; Paris, an hour; London, 90 minutes. From the middle ages to today, it has been a market town; every September the town hosts the largest flea market in the world, the “braderie de Lille.” Thousands of merchants, townsfolk young and old, participate in the buying and selling of anything and everything. An enthusiastic atmosphere is palpable and pervades the entire city.

The recent movie, « Bienvenu chez les Ch’tis »–the hilarious story of a reluctant Provençal who is horrified to be transferred from his

Parlez-vous Ch’ti?

beloved, warm Provence to Lille, the “north pole”, only to be won over by the friendly, loveable townspeople—was a smash hit in France and produced an immediate spike in tourism in the area. And with good reason. The food is excellent, the accommodations first rate, the natives hospitable, the architecture breathtaking, the ambience exuberant, the size comfortable, the cultural activities multiple. A local dictum says, “What the Lillois lacks in sunshine is made up by the warmth in his heart.” What’s not to love?

Next installments on Lille: Lille, Cultural Mecca of the North; Lille, gateway to Europe; Lille, an architectural Jewel.

If you’re considering visiting this beautiful city, read more here!

The enchanting city of Nîmes in the Languedoc-Rousillon area of Provence is close to the major cities of Montpellier and Arles. Populated by 145,000 people, it was inhabited by the Gallo-

Amphitheatre in Nimes

Romans, to which its impressive, 2000 year-old ruins attest. One of the world’s best preserved Roman amphitheaters is found here, still active, with events ranging from concerts to bullfights.

Bullfights, also known as “corridas”, said to have had historical origins since the Roman times (which later spread to Spain and to this unique microcosm in Provence, France), take place between March and November. The French bulls come from the Camargue region.

The high point of festive life in Nîmes is the Whitsun Feria (Féria de Pentecôte), which draws nearly a million visitors to watch the bullfights à la Provençal during Pentecost weekend. The bull is king for five days; he is not killed or maimed, as in Spain. The macho toreadors merely torment him and try to snatch a small ribbon off the top of his head. But people don’t come to Nîmes during the Feria just for the bullfights; they come mainly for the party atmosphere, the free-flowing wine and loud music. The streets are lively and the friendly, euphoric ambiance in the streets is intoxicating. Watch the Rick Steves’ short video about these bullfights: Bullfights in Nimes.

Jardins de la Fontaine, Nimes

Nîmes boasts another beautiful architectural antiquity: La Maison Carrée, the only fully preserved temple from Roman times, similar to La Madeleine in Paris. Also of interest is the nearby Jardin de la Fontaine, a magnificent piece of architectural landscape created in 1745, with both a Mediterranean garden and a classical French garden. A pass can be obtained to see all the monuments together.

The weather in the south of France is very warm and sunny during the summer, ranging in temperature from 75 to 88 degrees Fahrenheit. Winters there are mild, usually in the 40s and 50s Fahrenheit.

Interesting trivia: the word “denim” originates from the conjunction of “de” (from) + “Nîm” (Nîmes) placed together. Originally the name of a sturdy fabric called serge de Nîmes, which was made in Nîmes, France, by the André family, the name was soon shortened to denim.

There is no shortage of activities to do while in the lovely, antique city of Nîmes. And don’t forget to visit the marvelous vineyards which surround Nîmes, so prevalent in the sunny Languedoc-Roussillon area.

Splendor in the Train

The French, always innovating and creating, have done it again. The best way to get to the Versailles château is by taking the RER-C train, available throughout Paris. A new version of the RER-C to Versailles called, appropriately, The Versailles Train, was inaugurated in mid-May, and has been embellished in the stunning décor of the château. The newly redecorated train, replacing the boring, graffiti-laden daily train, will serve all 36 stations on the RER C line as it criss-crosses Paris on its way to Versailles. There will be five such trains in

The “library” car on the RER to Versailles

daily service by the end of the year.

A joint effort by the national rail company [the SNCF], the city of Versailles and the château itself, the project took less than a year from conception to completion. The new decor’s polished plastic-film panels were created using photographs of Versailles specially adapted to the dimensions of the train cars, glued to the walls and rounded ceilings of the double-decker trains. The train’s seven different decors include sections of the Chateau’s most renowned attractions—the Hall of Mirrors and the Battles Gallery—and lovely lesser-known corners: the Queen’s Chamber in the Petit Trianon, the Temple of Love and Belvedere of Marie Antoinette’s domain, the peristyle of the Grand Trianon, the library of Louis XVI and the decor of Charles X’s royal carriage.

Splendor on the ceiling

For many Parisians, the effort represents a marvel they hope to see repeated on the other lines of the RER (the A, B, and D); for others, the fear that graffiti will quickly ruin the efforts casts doubt on the initial success. It is hoped that about 20% of passengers who ride this train, both locals and tourists, will enjoy this free artwork. If you’re a tourist in Paris and want to ride this particular train, simply hang out in an RER-C station until you see it come through; it might take a while, but it will be worth the wait. It’s a stunning ride on the way to a stunning visit.

See the inaugural run here: www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=U1YmeQ45szE