Traveling in France Archives - The French Traveler

Paris: monuments of the historical axis

January 29, 2014 by Valerie Sutter, Director, The French Traveler

The highlight of many tourists in Paris is a stroll through the Tuileries Garden from the Louvre to the Place de la Concorde, then on down the Champs-Elysées to the Place Charles de Gaulle. However, do many of them know that they are following the Triumphal Way, also known as the Historic Axis?

The Historical Axis starts and ends with arches. At the eastern end of the axis, the Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel is one of two triumphal arches on the Way. Located at the Louvre end of the Tuileries garden, it was built by Napoléon I, and modeled on the Arch of Constantine in Rome to celebrate the military might of the emperor. Originally on the top of the Arc du Carrousel were the famous horses of Saint Mark’s Cathedral in Venice, Italy, which had been captured by Napoleon in 1798. In 1815, this statuary was returned to Venice and was replaced in 1828 by a statue that commemorates the Restoration of the Bourbons after the fall of Napoléon.

Arch of the Carousel du Louvre

At the center of the historical axis is one of the most famous monuments in Paris, the Arc de Triomphe. Sitting in the center of the Place Charles de Gaulle, the Arc de Triomphe honors those who fought and died for France in the French Revolution and the Napoleonic Wars. Also designed and commissioned by Napoleon in the same year at the Carousel arch, it took 30 years to build and was completed after his downfall.

Arc de Triomphe, Place Charles de Gaulle

There are names of all French victories and generals inscribed on its inner and outer surfaces, and beneath the vault lies the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier from World War I. Inspired by the Roman Arch of Titus, the Arc de Triomphe was the largest triumphal arch in existence until 1982. In 1919, Charles Godefroy flew through the center in a biplane. A rallying point for French troops after successful military campaigns, the Arc has been the site of famous military marches and parades; the Germans marched around it in 1940 when they invaded Paris. The Arc is also the starting point of the annual Bastille Day parade, celebrating French Independence Day on July 14.

The youngest arch on the historical axis is the Grande Arche de la Défense. It sits just outside the city limits of Paris in the Défense district. The idea of the arch was initiated by then French president François Mitterand, and inaugurated in July 1989 to commemorate the 200^th anniversary of the French Revolution. Designed as an open cube, the Grande Arche stands for peace and humanitarian ideals instead of war victories. It is an actual functioning building, and houses many governmental offices. It is easily accessible on the RER-A.

Grande Arche de la Defense

Traveling lightly in France

June 22, 2013 by Valerie Sutter, Director, The French Traveler

Chose one!

When you’re traveling in France, whether it be for a week, a month, or a year, TRAVEL LIGHTLY. Particularly if you travel by train or plane throughout the country, or even just trailing your suitcase behind you for a couple of blocks in Paris, it is best for your back (shoulders, knees, wrists) to pack lightly, intelligently, and succinctly. One suitcase should suffice if you plan well, preferably one you can lift yourself when it’s full. You will need a blend of mostly casual clothes with one or two evening outfits. Hotel rooms are small in Europe, much smaller than their American counterparts. Storage space is often sparse; hangers are occasionally just a figment of your imagination.

As a traveler, you probably won’t be seen by the same people twice, so who cares if you wear the same things two days in a row? My simple rule of thumb is a rule of threes: everything I pack must be able to be worn with three other things. Hence, my black pants must be able to be coordinated with my green blouse, my blue T-shirt, and my white jacket. My green blouse must also be able to be coordinated with my white pants, my blue jeans, and my black pants. And so on. For women, who are often confronted with the famous SHOE dilemma, here’s a rule of thumb: a pair comfortable walking shoes, low flats, and changeable sandals work well for summer fare; one pair of boots and closed-toed shoes are good for the fall/cooler seasons. For men, polo shirts, a collared shirt, and a couple of nice T-shirts work well in the summer; collared shirts and a simple jacket which can be work both with jeans and slacks are good in the cooler months.

Black is a great color to pack, not only because it’s so versatile and doesn’t show the dirt, but because it’s so very French. Dress is down with a casual shirt; dress it up with accessories (earrings, cuff links, belt, shoes) and you’ve got an evening outfit.

If you travel on European trains or planes, storage space is at a premium, and checked baggage is expensive. Bring a carry-on where you can, not only for easy storing in the trains/planes but for carting off the platforms and passageways.

Take a few tips from the King of Packing: Louis Vuitton. Click on this short video helps you visualize how to make the best of your suitcase. Bon voyage! www.frenchtraveler.com

Getting around Paris, part II

June 20, 2011 by Valerie Sutter, Director, The French Traveler Leave a Comment

When deciding how to travel around France, there are plenty of options! Paris especially offers multiple venues and modes of transportation.

– Travel like a native once you’re in the city: on the metros and buses. The RATP is the municipal governing body which runs the metro, busses, trams, and RER. Get yourself a week-long “Navigo Découverte” pass to ride the metro, bus and RER systems; it can be purchased for 5E at any one of the major metro stations with an attendant. You’ll need a small photo ID to place in it (obligatory). Once your have your pass, you can then load a week’s fare (currently 18,50 E) onto the pass either from an attendant or from any one of the machines found in every metro station, valid from Monday to Sunday of any particular week. This pass can be used over and over on subsequent trips to Paris. You can also purchase single tickets [a “carnet”] if you arrive later on in the week. Note: unless you use a credit card with a chip, your credit card won’t work in the metro machines. You’ll need to purchase from an attendant in this case.

– If you hate public transportation, then take a taxi…but they’re difficult to hail from the street. They’re found at various Taxi Stands around the city, or can be called from your hotel. They charge extra in the hours before 10 a.m. and after 4 p.m., and have different out-of-Paris rates as well. But most drivers love to chat and tell you about their city. Feel free to converse with them.

– Take advantage of the fabulous culture life of the city. Buy the Pariscope, which comes out every Wednesday announcing all the films, plays, guided walks, exhibits, museum hours, etc. The Figaro also has a supplement every Wednesday with the same information. Next installment: special outings in Paris.

– A surprising delight can be found at the Gare de Lyon train station in the 12th arrondissement: an elegant, delicious,

The dining room of Le Train Bleu at the Gare de Lyon train station

stately Belle-Epoque restaurant called Le Train Bleu. Serving travelers and regular diners alike, the restaurant bustles with energy and excellent food.

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