Alain Juppé, former prime minister of France and long-time mayor of Bordeaux, initiated massive renovations of the city in the 1990’s, bringing the formerly dark and closed city into the 21st century. An efficient and wide-reaching tramway spread over the city, huge restructuring of the quays along the Garonne River, an opening of the Vieille Ville and the cleaning up of many of the medieval buildings have totally transformed Bordeaux into a modern, elegant and bright city. Take a short tour of the new city and enjoy the beautiful Bordeaux architecture.

Start at the Place Quinconces, the largest public square in France. Formerly the home of a medieval fortress demolished in 1820, the Quinconques Square today boasts a 43-metre monument to the victims of the Terror who were guillotined during the French Revolution. Adorned with several dramatic statues of horses representing the Garonne River, the Dordogne River, and the city of Bordeaux, the motto “Liberty Breaking Free from her Chains” expresses the spirit of this proud city today.

From the Quinconces Square, make your way to the Grand Theatre, currently the Bordeaux Opera House, surrounded by arcades and a portico with giant columns, it hosts a lively restaurant and is general meeting place for the Bordelais residents.

Take Tram B a few stops along the Quai des Chartrons to witness the incredible upheaval in this former portuary area, all cleaned up. Several new shops, restaurants, covered markets and chic boutiques nest in the old warehouses where wine barrels once stood. Always the busy center of town as the main center of the wine trade, the Chartrons boardwalk, a few kilometers long, has been remade as a public garden and follows the banks of Garonne and ends up a the Public Gardens, passing in front of the beautiful buildings of the Bourse and the remarkable “mirror of water”.

Innovative design can be found throughout Bordeaux today, expressing its renewal and dynamism while remaining true to its former glory as the center of the French wine trade.

If you plan on visiting, take this Bordeaux Architecture walking tour and enjoy the sites!

Part of the enchantment of the city of Bordeaux is its fascinating history. In addition to its excellent location on the Garonne River at the mouth of the Gironde estuary, its turbulent but compelling past may be summed up in three stages:

• Known as Burdigala in Roman times, the city owed its fortune to the creation of the first vineyard along the Atlantic coast during the first century. This gallo-roman city called “little Rome” cultivated an Antique civilization which lasted until the invasion of the Francs and the Normans, beginning in the third century, when the city fell into a period of obscurity.

• During the Middle Ages, the long-lasting political union between the duchy of Aquitaine and the British Royalty (1154-1443) brought about great prosperity due to the export of Bordeaux wines to the British Iles. By the 14^th century the city’s population had grown to nearly thirty thousand, very high for a medieval town.

• The third period of Bordeaux’s prosperity came during the 18^th century, again due to its thriving wine culture, especially in the Médoc region. By this time Bordeaux had become annexed to France and was an important port for colonial commerce, trading sugar, coffee and slaves from the West Indies. With its aristocratic parliament and its intellectual elite (including Montesquieu), the 18^th century is known as Bordeaux’s “golden age.” French author Victor Hugo found the town so beautiful he once claimed, “Take Versailles, add Antwerp, and you have Bordeaux”. In 1856, Baron Haussmann, a long-time prefect of Bordeaux, used Bordeaux’s 18th century big-scale rebuilding as a model when asked by Emperor Napoleon III to modernize a then still medieval Paris. Visitors can see evidence of Bordeaux’s classical architecture in such splendeurs as the Place Royale, the buildings along the quays, and the Grand-Theatre.

Take a guided tour and see how Bordeaux’s glorious past is reflected in the modern city of today. Bonne visite!

Away from the Crowds, part II

Continuing our jaunts outside the City of Lights, here are a few more notable excursions easily made under an hour from Paris:

• VAUX-LE-VICOMTE: A miniature Versailles, in fact, exactly that: full of intrigue and a murky past. Nicolas Fouquet purchased a small chateau of no consequence outside Paris 1641 and commissioned architect Louis Le Vau and landscaper Le Nôtre to enlarge and beautify it. Upon completion of the work in 1661, Fouquet, then First Minister under Louis XIV, offered the king a tribute to his kingdom by throwing an enormous party, ending the resplendent evening with a spectacular display of fireworks, which particularly impressed the queen.

• Little did Fouquet know that would be his last public appearance. Furiously jealous of this remarkable home and convinced that Fouquet had been raiding the kingdom’s treasury to build it, Louis had Fouquet thrown into jail the following day and imprisoned for the rest of his life, then promptly hired Le Vau and Le Nôtre to remake his hunting lodge at Versailles. Fouquet died in 1680 without ever seeing his castle again. Moonraker, Valmont, D’Artagnan’s Daughter, The Man in the Iron Mask were filmed here. One can also privatize the chateau for a party or wedding; in 2007, Tony Parker and Eva Longoria did just that. Trains from Gare de Lyon to Melun; then, a Chateaubus shuttle. Or RER D to Melun, then Chateaubus.

• FONTAINBLEAU: By turns hunting lodge, country home of kings, and residence of the king’s mistress, this magnificent chateau only 35 minutes south of Paris has retained its elegance and charm despite demolitions, reconstructions, additions, and embellishments of all sorts. It was here in 1685 that Louis XIV signed the disastrous Revocation of the Edict of Nantes, as well as the secret treaty between France and Spain in 1785 concerning the Louisiana territory in North America. The castle is surrounded by a magnificent national forest, a favorite of hikers and equestrians. Trains from Paris Gare de Lyon to Fontainebleau-Avon.

• GIVERNY: For a day of artistic beauty and country authenticity, travel to the small town of Giverny, 80 kms NW of Paris, home to Impressionist Claude Monet for 43 years. You can visit Monet’s home and gardens, his well-known Japanese bridge, the museum shop and small café. Don’t overlook the Musée des Impressionismes next door, open April 1-Oct 31. Trains from the Gare St-Lazare to Vernon; from Vernon, either walk the 6 kms, take a taxi, or the shuttle bus which runs between April and October.

 

Away from those Madding Crowds!, Part I

We all know and love Paris’ main attractions, but just what is there to do outside of the City of Lights? The list is quite long:

• ECOUEN: French history buffs will want to visit its castle which is home to the Musée National de la Renaissance. (This museum does for the Renaissance what Cluny does for the Middle Ages).

Built by the influential Anne de Montmorency, the château is one of the most beautiful built in France during the Renaissance and one of the few to have been preserved without major damage over the centuries and through the wars. It retains some of its original decorations (painted fireplaces, ceremonial paving, ceilings and friezes, etc). After your visit, stroll through the castle’s beautiful wooded grounds and then have lunch in the quaint little town. Ecouen is located only 19 kms north of Paris; trains from Gare du Nord.

• BEAUVAIS: For those of you who can’t get enough of gigantic gothic cathedrals don’t miss Beauvais’ impressive Saint-Pierre Cathedral which was initially built so high that it collapsed – twice.

Construction began in 1225 and finally finished in 1548, with intermittant stops-and-starts due to the ambitious height of the central tower. Inside this architectural wonder you’ll find another curiosity: the biggest clock you’ve ever seen (the size of a small house), built in the mid-nineteenth century. Beauvais is about an hour north of Paris in the department of Picardie. Trains from the Gard du Nord.

• CHANTILLY: Another must-see on your outside-Paris itinerary, Chantilly is half an hour north of Paris in the department of the Oise.

Renaissance lovers will appreciate the magnificent Condé Museum, and the formal gardens designed by Le Notre are loved by all. Horse-lovers won’t want to miss France’s Museum of the Horse also located here, and will enjoy seeing the training grounds, racetrack, horse stables, and other equestrian delights. The 1985 James Bond movie A View to Kill was filmed here, as well as the 1962 film The Longest Day (John Wayne) and in 1994, Jefferson in Paris. Trains from the Gard du Nord.

So, the next time you’re in Paris, be sure to venture out and discover some of France’s hidden gems just north of the capital.

France in a day!

La France Miniature

Visit France in just one afternoon? Mais oui, it’s possible! At France Miniature you can see the entire country – in miniature. At this 12-acre park in the shape of France just west of Paris you’ll find models of France’s most famous places and monuments. The Tour Eiffel, the Arc de Triomphe, castles and cathedrals have all been recreated, en tout petit. You’ll “visit” the Mont Saint Michel and the region of Brittany to the west of France. You’ll watch the boats go in and out of the harbors at La Rochelle in the west and Saint Tropez in the south. Near Lyon you’ll watch “people” (figurines) dining at one of the most famous restaurants in France, chez Paul Bocuse. You’ll “tour” several of the castles along the Loire such as Chambord, Chenonceau, and Azay le Rideau.

You’ll admire the cathedrals of Strasbourg, Chartres, Orleans, and of course, Notre Dame de Paris. Models of typical villages have been recreated in Brittany, Normandy, Picardie and Alsace. You’ll want to spend time examining each miniature site for its exquisite detail and workmanship. But don’t worry: it won’t take you long to walk through France’s forests, climb France’s mountains or cross France’s rivers: just a hop, skip and a jump! A detailed guidebook with descriptions of each model comes with the price of admission. This is a visit which will be fun and educational. Tip for French teachers: take lots of photos to use in class!