A short ride northeast of Paris lies the stunningly beautiful Chateau de Chantilly.  Beautiful forest, elegant chateau, first-class museum, a fine equestrian center, a romantic new luxurious hotel, polo, golf, and gastronomic meals make this a perfect Paris getaway.

Constructed in the fourteenth century by the Chancellor of Orgemont, the chateau remained in different branches of the same family for centuries.  Because of its beauty and architecture, it retained a stately place alongside Versailles, Fontainebleau, Vaux-le-Vicomte, Ecouen, etc for its princely families.

Its breathtaking gardens were designed by André LeNotre at the end of the seventeenth century.  The parterre à la française of Chantilly offers the most dazzling view points of the visit. It includes vast water mirrors reflecting the sky, many hosepipes and fountains as well as a statuary program of great quality. Of all the gardens created by the illustrious artist, Chantilly was Le Nôtre’s favorite accomplishment.   He drew a great perspective that begins at the honor gate and ends at the statue of Anne de Montmorency, extending to the other side of the Grand Canal, up to the forest, making Chantilly the only garden created by the landscaper of Versailles that is in line with a statue, rather than with the chateau.  The Grand Canal of Chantilly (1.5miles) exceeds by far that of Versailles; of all of the Le Nôtre gardens, the gardens à la française of Chantilly feature the largest water expanse.

At the heart of this storied château is its superb museum and equestrian center. Housing some of the country’s most important collections of old masters outside the Louvre, the museum is an architectural jewel on a human scale.  The equestrian center, also a museum, portrays brilliantly life as it used to be when horses reigned; live shows, a riding academy, and an active blog keep the equestrian life alive and well today.

And now, to top it all, a romantic new hotel called the Auberge du Jeu de Paume has been constructed in neo-eighteenth century style on the grounds.  A luxurious 4-star hotel with 92 bedrooms and suites, enhanced by two excellent restaurants headed by award-winning chef Arnaud Faye (formerly of the Ritz Paris and Mandarin Oriental hotels) and a stunning 6000 sq ft Moorish spa add to its enjoyment.  If that isn’t enough to complete a country escape from Paris, there are two golf courses nearby, horseback riding on the property, live concerts, a modern library, and polo at the exclusive Chantilly Polo Club.

Access to Chantilly: The Chantilly Estate is 25 miles from Paris North, accessible by car, trains and RER.  Drive on the Autoroute du Nord (A1), approximately 42 minutes; exit Chantilly.  GPS coordinates  Latitude: N49°11.670, Longitude: E002°28.930.  By train SNCF from the Gare du Nord (24 minutes) or RER from Châtelet-Les Halles (45 minutes).  From the Chantilly train station to the Château, (fixed rate: about 8€): 5 minute ride; or the DUC (Cantilienne Urban Service) is the complimentary bus of Chantilly: departures at the bus station, exit at Chantilly, église Notre-Dame. Walking to the château from the bus station takes approximately 22 minutes.

Located 302 miles slightly south, and due west of Paris, the town of Quimper is in Northwestern Bretagne, or the Lower Brittany region of France.  In Breton (the regional dialect of Brittany), the town name derives from the word “Kemper”, which denotes “confluent,” indicating Quimper’s location at the juncture of the Jet, Odet, and Steir rivers.  The ancient capital of La Cornouaille, it is the oldest town in Brittany, 2000 years old, richly steeped in Gallo-Roman history.

Beautiful Quimper is comprised of three smaller, ancient towns:  the original site, the Bishop’s town, and the Ducal town.

The original Gallo-Roman settlement is Locmaria, which also boasts the 12^th century Église de Locmaria (the Church), in Romanesque style architecture.  It also has a medieval garden and priory.

The Bishop’s town showcases the astonishing Palais des Évêques, or Bishops’ Palace, Le Musée Départemental Breton for the history buff, and the ruins of the town walls, since the 15^th century.  There are also gorgeous displays of timbered houses, representing the Breton architecture throughout the area.  The streets are named after the famed ancient trades, which brings history to life!

Lastly, the Ducal town presents the charming L’Église St.Mathieu, with its wonderful stained-glass windows.  It is open to the public, and well worth the visit.  Don’t miss the beautiful houses of Place Terre au Duc.

La Cathédrale de St. Corentin, a gothic architectural wonder, is a church that has been erected since 1239.  In 1850, the cathedral was restored by the native-born Quimper architect Joseph Biogt, due to its damage sustained from the French Revolution.  The restored stained-glass windows truly reflect the spirit of the 15th century.

Rich in tradition and proud of their culture, the Bretons celebrate with a Festival each year: parades, traditional costumes, bagpipes, flutes and drums, they march proudly throughout the city and have various contests and entertainment..  In 2013, the celebration of 90 years of culture will be celebrated from July 23-28, 2013.  Have a peek at a short video from last year’s festival: click here.

Access is by high-speed train from Paris, about 4-1/2 hrs, or by car.  Degemer mat…Breton for “Welcome!”

Continue reading about Quimper here!

Located nearly equidistant between Marseilles, Grenoble, and Avignon, lies Sisteron, otherwise known as “the gate to Provence”, in the south of France. Situated 180 km from Nice, it is next to the Durance River, not far from the Alps and the famous Sault plateau.

Originally a prehistoric town, then later a fortified town of the counts of Provence before the 7th century, Sisteron was bestowed to Louis XI in 1483, when it joined the kingdom of France. Less than one hundred years later, the Anglo-Saxon Protestants and the Catholics fought over which side would claim the city and its fortress.
Visitors today may find a plethora of activities to do and places to see within Sisteron. The “Old Town” enchants visitors through its Roman past, along with its architectural splendor and ramparts. The ramparts are known to be the tallest, and best-preserved in France, standing the tests of many battles and time since 1370.

The Citadel, classified as a historic monument, is open to the public from the end of March until November 11th. It overlooks the entire city, and it is known as the masterpiece of this city. Visitors may enter the Citadel, which houses a museum with exhibitions, a chapel, and other interesting sights. The Notre Dame et Saint –Thyrse Cathedral is open to the public, and provides guided visits as well as free admission. Sisteron also boasts other religious venues such as St. Dominique and St. Marcel, both free to the public.

Interesting museums abound, such as the Municipal Museum of Earth and Time, with its artifacts to pique the visitor’s interest, offering an explanation for the passage of time in nature. Entry is free. There is also the “Old Sisteron” Museum highlighting its Gallo-Roman history. The Scouting Museum celebrates (Boy Scouts), and the Eco-Museum, which are both free for the entire family.

Sisteron and its environs are a joy to visit, and ideally located en Haute Provence region. Not far from the Sault plateau, known for its beautiful lavender fields, it is family-friendly, full of history, and offers plenty of fascinating activities for the Francophile.

To learn even more about Sisteron, continue here.

Longing for a short but exciting winter reprieve? Try the French Riviera! Both NICE  and neighboring MENTON offer wonderful treats every February, and slightly further afield the region of MARSEILLE/PROVENCE is named 2013 capital of culture with more than 400 cultural events planned throughout the year.

The annual Fête du Citron in Menton coincides each year with the Carnival de Nice, so you can easily enjoy both activities. The LEMON FESTIVAL, now in its 80th year, chooses a theme each year around which its 7000 tons of citrus fruit, principally from Spain and Morocco, are used to fashion dramatic floats and breathtaking sculptures. What more fitting theme this year than Around the World in 80 Days? Begun in 1934 as a way to advertise the prolific growth of its lemon trees, the city of Menton launched a parade and an exhibit to show off its gardens and fruits. An overnight success, the festival took off and developed an aura of its own. You’ll be amazed at the incredible variety and creativity of the giant sculptures and floats. Feb 16-March 6.
The Carnival in Nice is quite an amazing extravaganza to watch. One of the world’s largest

carnivals, it takes place each year in February, and recently the carnival time has been extended to a three-week period from two. The NICE CARNIVAL  is categorized by giant floats and very large burlesque figures, often fashioned by prominent artists mocking present-day figures in the news. There are a series of programs both public and private to watch, like the Battle of Flowers and the Corso carnavalesque illuminé. Hotels are often crowded at this time of year, but if you travel to the backcountry Riviera you can also find less expensive and less crowded housing.  Feb 16-March 6.

Further west, the region of Marseille/Provence has been designated the 2013 EUROPEAN CULTURE CAPITAL.  Several events are planned in different cities in Provence throughout the year. Here’s an example of how the town of Aix en Provence celebrated the

opening of the event, by decorating its trees.

 

Named for its majestic river and beautiful valley, the department of Dordogne in south west France is one of the five departments making up the region of Aquitaine. Endowed with a soft, gentle beauty (in contrast to the dramatic extremes of Provence, for example), this region is rich with history, scenic landscapes and charming villages, and is one of France’s favorite vacation destinations. Not only a land of mystical troubadours, but one of reasonable thinkers, the area has produced such statesmen and writers as Montaigne, Fénelon, La Boétie and Montesquieu. Other interesting finds in the Dordogne:

• Castles – over a thousand of them, more than any other region in France — are scattered throughout the area: Castelnaud, Montbazillac, Hautefort, Eyrignac….Many of them receive visitors, some cultivate wine, and some even have bed-and-breakfast capabilities. You’ll think you’ve entered a fairy tale!

• Historical towns such as medieval Sarlat, Nontron and Bournat boast beautiful medieval architecture, pedestrian streets, scenic views and specialty shops. On the scenic Vézère river lies Saint Léon-sur-Vézère, which has been classified as one of the “most beautiful villages of France.” And St-Cirq Lapopie and Rocamadour, perched atop impossible cliffs, are simply breathtaking.

• Prehistoric sites, especially in the Vézère valley, dominate the region. You’ll find the famous Lascaux cave paintings as well as other caves, troglodyte dwellings and prehistoric sculptures. Beautifully preserved and tourist-friendly, these sites make you feel like you’re in a time machine going back centuries, providing a great appreciation for our fellow mankind of yesteryear.

• Delicious regional cuisine, combined with excellent wine, helps to clear your thinking: enjoy truffles, fois gras, duck, garlic soup, and sweet white Bergerac wines as you glide down the Dordogne River on one of the charming gabares which motor indulgently along the river.

• Festivals are celebrated all summer long in each of the towns in the Dordogne. Likely honoring a patron saint, the town dresses itself up, hosts a parade, wine tasting, communal picnicking, a bal musette (accordion songs to which the locals dance), and good general animation. Great fun to attend and watch.

Want to practice your French while touring this beautiful area? French teachers and other francophones are welcome to join our Extension Tour to the Dordogne July 26-29, 2012 to immerse themselves in the language and culture of this region, while enjoying the subtle beauty and excellent cuisine of the Dordogne. Click here for details.

Thinking of visiting Provence? Then mark your maps for a stopover in Avignon. Located in the south of France in the department of the Vauclause, Avignon is a beautiful city surrounded by medieval ramparts in the heart of Provence. During the fourteenth century, it became the residence of the Popes. As a result of the Great Schism—the great division between the Roman Catholic Church and the Eastern Orthodox Church—the Roman Church re-established itself in Avignon, and to recognize this fact, Le Palais des Papes was constructed in 1335, under Pope Benedict XII and his successor, Pope Clement VI. Now recognized as a UNESCO world heritage site, it holds 15,000 square meters of living space, making it the largest Gothic palace in the world.

A visit to the Palais is a must. The magnificence of yesteryear is felt throughout the entire palace, although today empty, but the guides revive history in the empty rooms and recount the lustrous meals, the costly guards, and the elegance of the papal reign. The cost of admission: 10.50€, reduced: 8.50€. Tours and cultural events are offered throughout the year.

The city of Avignon is surrounded by ramparts, built since 1355 to protect and fortify the city from mercenary assaults. There is no cost to see them. They provide a beautiful view of the city, and add to its intoxicating medieval charm.

Another UNESCO world heritage site found in Avignon is the famous Pont d’Avignon, also known as the Saint Bénezet Bridge which overlooks the Rhone River. Built in the twelfth century, it collapsed several times due to the flooding of the river. The bridge underwent several reconstructions, but a flood in the 17th century finally put the bridge out of commission. Now only a few of the bridge’s arches remain today. The famous children’s song “Sur le Pont d’Avignon” references this bridge, providing its listeners with the historical and cultural significance, since the Middle Ages. To visit the Pont d’Avignon, it costs 3.50€ as a reduced admission, 4.50€ for a regular admission.

Amongst the other landmarks to see in Avignon is the beautiful Cathédrale Notre Dame des Doms, constructed in 1037. Since then, the cathedral has undergone much reconstruction and expansion, the last of which took place near the end of the 17th century. Admission is free to the general public. The Musée Calvet (the museum of art and archeology) and the Musée Angladon (more contemporary art, impressionist art) are also well worth seeing.

Host to one of the most innovative and successful theatre festivals in the world every summer in the month of July), Avignon has much to offer to its visitors. Its charm, history, culture, mild climate, and welcoming people make this city a must-see while traveling in France.

 

Expecting a drab, chilly northern city on my first trip to Lille this summer, I was delighted instead to find a colorful metropolis filled with lively, cheerful people and more cultural activities than many French cities to the south. I was bowled over by the friendliness of the waiters in the restaurants, the staff at the hotel at which I stayed, the people on the bus, the curators at the museums I visited, the beauty of the architecture. There’s an overwhelming exuberance in this city that permeates all activities and fills the visitor with a pleasant sense of acceptance. Quelle surprise!

Take, for example, the Vieille Bourse, a seventeenth-century building in the heart of town. Beautifully sculpted and colorfully decorated, this former commercial exchange built in 1653 is actually composed several small houses constructed around a central open patio originally designed to afford a calm and protected area for the financiers to conduct business away from the elements. Modernized today with shops and restaurants, it was the scene one Sunday afternoon in August of a vast collection of books and art. Couples wandering the interior patio leisurely browsed the stalls and thumbed through the various books, some rare collections, some posters, old engravings and more….a bibliophile’s dream. The very same patio later on that evening had turned into a Milonga: tango lovers, both amateurs and experienced, dressed accordingly in elegant outfits and high heels,danced under the stars to the cherished tango music of the DJ, who blasted out old favorites of Carlos Gardel and Alberto Castillo from his station in the corner.

After decades of slow and painful decline from the destruction wrought in the area by two world wars, Lille has made a comeback in recent years, thanks to an urban remodeling project called Eurolille that began in 1991. The Euralille Centre was opened in 1994, and the remodeled district is now full of parks and modern buildings containing offices, shops and apartments. Lille was named European Capital of Culture in 2004. Its very central location in northern France makes it easy to reach by high-speed train: Brussels is only 30 minutes away; Paris, an hour; London, 90 minutes. From the middle ages to today, it has been a market town; every September the town hosts the largest flea market in the world, the “braderie de Lille.” Thousands of merchants, townsfolk young and old, participate in the buying and selling of anything and everything. An enthusiastic atmosphere is palpable and pervades the entire city.

The recent movie, « Bienvenu chez les Ch’tis »–the hilarious story of a reluctant Provençal who is horrified to be transferred from his

beloved, warm Provence to Lille, the “north pole”, only to be won over by the friendly, loveable townspeople—was a smash hit in France and produced an immediate spike in tourism in the area. And with good reason. The food is excellent, the accommodations first rate, the natives hospitable, the architecture breathtaking, the ambience exuberant, the size comfortable, the cultural activities multiple. A local dictum says, “What the Lillois lacks in sunshine is made up by the warmth in his heart.” What’s not to love?

Next installments on Lille: Lille, Cultural Mecca of the North; Lille, gateway to Europe; Lille, an architectural Jewel.

If you’re considering visiting this beautiful city, read more here!

The enchanting city of Nîmes in the Languedoc-Rousillon area of Provence is close to the major cities of Montpellier and Arles. Populated by 145,000 people, it was inhabited by the Gallo-

Romans, to which its impressive, 2000 year-old ruins attest. One of the world’s best preserved Roman amphitheaters is found here, still active, with events ranging from concerts to bullfights.

Bullfights, also known as “corridas”, said to have had historical origins since the Roman times (which later spread to Spain and to this unique microcosm in Provence, France), take place between March and November. The French bulls come from the Camargue region.

The high point of festive life in Nîmes is the Whitsun Feria (Féria de Pentecôte), which draws nearly a million visitors to watch the bullfights à la Provençal during Pentecost weekend. The bull is king for five days; he is not killed or maimed, as in Spain. The macho toreadors merely torment him and try to snatch a small ribbon off the top of his head. But people don’t come to Nîmes during the Feria just for the bullfights; they come mainly for the party atmosphere, the free-flowing wine and loud music. The streets are lively and the friendly, euphoric ambiance in the streets is intoxicating. Watch the Rick Steves’ short video about these bullfights: Bullfights in Nimes.

Nîmes boasts another beautiful architectural antiquity: La Maison Carrée, the only fully preserved temple from Roman times, similar to La Madeleine in Paris. Also of interest is the nearby Jardin de la Fontaine, a magnificent piece of architectural landscape created in 1745, with both a Mediterranean garden and a classical French garden. A pass can be obtained to see all the monuments together.

The weather in the south of France is very warm and sunny during the summer, ranging in temperature from 75 to 88 degrees Fahrenheit. Winters there are mild, usually in the 40s and 50s Fahrenheit.

Interesting trivia: the word “denim” originates from the conjunction of “de” (from) + “Nîm” (Nîmes) placed together. Originally the name of a sturdy fabric called serge de Nîmes, which was made in Nîmes, France, by the André family, the name was soon shortened to denim.

There is no shortage of activities to do while in the lovely, antique city of Nîmes. And don’t forget to visit the marvelous vineyards which surround Nîmes, so prevalent in the sunny Languedoc-Roussillon area.

 

The French, always innovating and creating, have done it again. The best way to get to the Versailles château is by taking the RER-C train, available throughout Paris. A new version of the RER-C to Versailles called, appropriately, The Versailles Train, was inaugurated in mid-May, and has been embellished in the stunning décor of the château. The newly redecorated train, replacing the boring, graffiti-laden daily train, will serve all 36 stations on the RER C line as it criss-crosses Paris on its way to Versailles. There will be five such trains in

daily service by the end of the year.

A joint effort by the national rail company [the SNCF], the city of Versailles and the château itself, the project took less than a year from conception to completion. The new decor’s polished plastic-film panels were created using photographs of Versailles specially adapted to the dimensions of the train cars, glued to the walls and rounded ceilings of the double-decker trains. The train’s seven different decors include sections of the Chateau’s most renowned attractions—the Hall of Mirrors and the Battles Gallery—and lovely lesser-known corners: the Queen’s Chamber in the Petit Trianon, the Temple of Love and Belvedere of Marie Antoinette’s domain, the peristyle of the Grand Trianon, the library of Louis XVI and the decor of Charles X’s royal carriage.

For many Parisians, the effort represents a marvel they hope to see repeated on the other lines of the RER (the A, B, and D); for others, the fear that graffiti will quickly ruin the efforts casts doubt on the initial success. It is hoped that about 20% of passengers who ride this train, both locals and tourists, will enjoy this free artwork. If you’re a tourist in Paris and want to ride this particular train, simply hang out in an RER-C station until you see it come through; it might take a while, but it will be worth the wait. It’s a stunning ride on the way to a stunning visit.

See the inaugural run here: www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=U1YmeQ45szE

Arcachon and the Landes

On the Atlantic coast not far from Bordeaux lies the beautiful seaside town of Arcachon, well-known for its oyster culture, its fishing harbor, and its bathing resort where sea winds mix with the fresh scent of pine trees from the nearby forest of the Landes.

Situated at the base of the Arcachon basin, and originally a vast desert, the city of Arcachon was the brainchild of the barons of power in the 19^th century who saw a unique opportunity to create an elite spa-town in this wild and beautiful area. François Legallais decided to create the first hotel in 1823, extolling the virtues of the sea air and the forest pines. His gamble paid off: the city quickly built its reputation as a place to cure tuberculosis and lymphatic disease, becoming a four-star destination for the wealthy Bordeaux residents who created enormous mansions as their second homes in what became known as the “Ville d’hiver”, the winter town. Other areas soon built up, giving the names of the four seasons to the different areas, hence one can also find the summer town, the spring town and the autumn town.

Known for its wild dunes, the nearly 15,000 square kilometers of the area are covered with a thick sand, which, carried by winds, create dunes of varying heights. The inland dunes do not usually exceed 15 meters high and are fixed from moving too much by vegetation.

The coastal dunes, however, are still “active,” and can reach much greater heights due to their constant movement. The Dune du Pyla (or Pilat), near Arcachon, is Europe’s largest sand dune at over 100 meters high. It’s quite a feat to climb it, but the view from the top of the Atlantic Ocean and the city itself is breathtaking.

French teachers, join us this summer as we travel to Arcachon from Bordeaux for a lively day’s outing during our workshop for French teachers to be held July 15-26, 2012. Click here for further details.