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The quatorze juillet, Bastille Day

July 12, 2012 by Valerie Sutter, Director, The French Traveler Leave a Comment

Official parade down the Champs Elysee on bastille day

Parade on Champs Elysees on 14 juillet

Each July 14th France celebrates its national holiday, known in English as Bastille Day. The French simply call it: “la fête nationale” or “le 14 juillet” or perhaps “La fête de la Bastille.” Commemorating the storming of the Bastille in 1789 and the end of absolute monarchy, this date has become synonymous with celebrations all over France: dances, concerts, and of course, fireworks.

It’s the holiday that marks the definitive end of the school year, the results of the posting of the bac exam for 12th graders, the beginning of summer, the start of the endless summer traffic jams and madness in the rail stations and airports, the waning of the sale season, the official use of shorts and T-shirts in the streets, the arrival of tourists, big parades and long summer meals. Since the French daylight time is two hours ahead of sunrise, the days are long at this time (twilight starts around 10 pm) and the splendid fireworks on this day don’t begin until 11 pm.

This year the fête is on a Saturday, giving two “official” days to the celebration, since on both Saturday and Sunday the stores will be closed, as will be banks, supermarkets, post offices, some restaurants, etc. There are festivities everywhere in France on the fête nationale. If you have the good fortune to be in France, check with your local tourist office to see where the fireworks and the “bal des pompiers” (the firemen’s ball—outdoor dances in the streets) will be held.

Here are a few of the activities in store for those lucky enough to be in and around Paris this year. Whether you are Parisian yourself or simply visiting the capital, profitez-en and enjoy the festivities!

• Military Parade in the morning on the Champs-Elysées starting at the Arc de Triomphe at 10 am. Always a magnificent parade, with the President of the République and his cabinet in attendance.

Fireworks on the Champs de Mars Paris for bastille day

Best fireworks in all of France

• July 14th fireworks display on the Champs-de-Mars, under the Eiffel Tower or from the Jardins du Trocadéro across the river. Métro: Trocadéro. This year’s theme: “Disco Years” with music from the 70s and 80s. Starts around 10:45 p.m.

• Free admission to the Louvre today (other museums may be closed).

• Free performance at the Opéra National de Paris, Palais Garnier. 7:30 p.m. Limited seating. • Fireman’s ball. Dance through the night at many fire stations all over Paris, July 13th and 14th. Donations accepted at the door.

• Longchamp Garden party at the Longchamp racecourse in the 16th arrondissement. Free. Following the races there will be concerts and fireworks. Une belle soirée au champ de course! Métro: Porte Maillot.

• Picnic in the park of the Château de Versailles on the banks of the Grand Canal. Vendors, bands, Grandes eaux musicales (musical fountains). From 11 a.m. – 4 p.m. Free. Dress code: White.

Bon déjeuner sur l’herbe! Bonne fête à toutes et à tous!

Filed Under: French customs & culture

RER Paris to Versailles

July 5, 2012 by Valerie Sutter, Director, The French Traveler Leave a Comment

RER-C train to Versailles

Splendor in the Train

The French, always innovating and creating, have done it again. The best way to get to the Versailles château is by taking the RER-C train, available throughout Paris. A new version of the RER-C to Versailles called, appropriately, The Versailles Train, was inaugurated in mid-May, and has been embellished in the stunning décor of the château. The newly redecorated train, replacing the boring, graffiti-laden daily train, will serve all 36 stations on the RER C line as it criss-crosses Paris on its way to Versailles. There will be five such trains in

The "library" car

The “library” car on the RER to Versailles

daily service by the end of the year.

A joint effort by the national rail company [the SNCF], the city of Versailles and the château itself, the project took less than a year from conception to completion. The new decor’s polished plastic-film panels were created using photographs of Versailles specially adapted to the dimensions of the train cars, glued to the walls and rounded ceilings of the double-decker trains. The train’s seven different decors include sections of the Chateau’s most renowned attractions—the Hall of Mirrors and the Battles Gallery—and lovely lesser-known corners: the Queen’s Chamber in the Petit Trianon, the Temple of Love and Belvedere of Marie Antoinette’s domain, the peristyle of the Grand Trianon, the library of Louis XVI and the decor of Charles X’s royal carriage.

Ceiling

Splendor on the ceiling

For many Parisians, the effort represents a marvel they hope to see repeated on the other lines of the RER (the A, B, and D); for others, the fear that graffiti will quickly ruin the efforts casts doubt on the initial success. It is hoped that about 20% of passengers who ride this train, both locals and tourists, will enjoy this free artwork. If you’re a tourist in Paris and want to ride this particular train, simply hang out in an RER-C station until you see it come through; it might take a while, but it will be worth the wait. It’s a stunning ride on the way to a stunning visit.

See the inaugural run here: www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=U1YmeQ45szE

Filed Under: French towns & villages, Towns & villages

Wine with Everything Tour for Women in Bordeaux, France Sept 2012

June 22, 2012 by Valerie Sutter, Director, The French Traveler Leave a Comment

Enjoying a glass of wine together in France women's wine tour

Toasting our friendship in France!

Ladies: Have you and your girlfriends ever wanted to get away from it all for a really unique treat? Love to taste wine and eat great food? Enjoy beautiful shopping in well-heeled places? Well, get yourselves organized and join the French Traveler this fall in Bordeaux, France. The Women’s Wine Tour for 7 spectacular days of rest, relaxation, and a whole lot of French culture: French wines, French cuisine, French markets, visits to French castles, vineyards, quaint villages, even a seaside resort. And wine tastings, bien sûr. The perfect girlfriend getaway!

This trip of a lifetime will be educational as well as entertaining. You’ll learn about wine from a certified oenologue, about French cuisine from a local French chef, and about French history from bilingual tour guides as you stroll through this beautifully renovated historical city.

There will be enough free time to revisit your favorite boutiques, explore the area on your own, or simply relax in an outdoor café, à la française!

One of the many vineyards in St Emilion on women's wine tour

Ahh, those vineyards!

When the week is up perhaps you’ll consider a day-long extension trip to the charming village of Saint-Emilion, located amongst the vineyards of the same name, classified a world-heritage site, where specialty shops, restaurants, historical ruins and wine cellars extend the pleasure of your stay in this beautiful corner of southwest France.

The tour is limited to 8 women so make sure you and your girlfriends – (or your neighbor/sister/mother/daughter/college roommate/cousin)—sign up soon! Dates: September 23-29th, plus optional extension to Saint-Emilion September 29th-30th. For more information and to register for this fabulous experience, please see our website: http://www.frenchtraveler.com/womens-tours/wine-with-everything-tour/

 

 

 

 

Filed Under: French customs & culture, Wine

Budget shopping in Paris

June 21, 2012 by Valerie Sutter, Director, The French Traveler 1 Comment

Budget shopping in Paris

Look good on a budget!

Thinking about shopping during your next  trip to Paris but don’t want to ruin your budget? Then avoid the boutiques of the expensive designer clothes where wealthy tourists are ready to pay exorbitant prices. Do instead what many elegant yet budget-conscious Parisian women do: turn to marques dégriffées (shops of discounted designer clothes from going-out-of-business sales), and dépôt-ventes (consignment shops where wealthy Parisians’ cast-offs go for a fraction of their original retail price). Shopping in either is shame-free; in fact, it’s considered shabby chic.

Looking for something to wear to that special event this summer? Try rummaging through the marques degriffées boutique Fifty-Fifty on rue Corvetto (8th); it’s like raiding your friend’s closet and paying a mere pittance to call these designer clothes your own. Regularly rotating designers like Givenchy and Marc Jacobs, Fifty-Fifty always has something for special occasions or night on the town.

You might also just walk up and down the Rue d’Alésia in the 14th, between the Avenue du Maine and the rue Raymon-Losserand (metro: Alésia or Plaisance): there are several stores, shops, and open markets here that show either last year’s collections, marques degrifées, or bargain-priced shipments for quick sales.

Consignment shops are plentiful. The dépôt-ventes will often not accept anything less than designer clothes of the highest brand, and even then, they must be spotlessly clean, with no buttons missing or threads pulled, so you are assured the highest quality in used clothing.

Budget shopping in Paris

Excellent values at Depot-Ventes

The Dépôt-Vente de Buci-Bourbon is a like a garage sale slumming with a champagne flute in hand. All the great designer clothes are found here, perhaps only a season or two past. You may find an exquisite silk Christian Dior dress with a matching jacket or duster, or a classic Channel two-piece suit that never outwears itself. Another excellent one is Chercheminippes, found at 102, 109, 111, 112, 114, 124 rue du Cherche-midi, Paris 6th. There are several stores here: for women, for men, for children, accessories, shoes, etc. For fabulous fur values, try Michel’s Artisan Fourrure at 130 ave Mozart in the 16th (métro Chardon Lagache or Eglise d’Auteuil). Have your own mink coat restored there, or shop for a great value right there. And anywhere along the beautiful pavilion of the Palais Royal you’ll find several boutiques selling yesterday’s styles at yesterday’s prices.

And if you find the perfect quelque chose in one of these shops, play the Parisian game: never let on where you purchased it. Budget shopping done right.

Click here for more information on great group tours to Paris

 

Filed Under: French customs & culture

Joan of Arc: 600 years of French history

May 27, 2012 by Valerie Sutter, Director, The French Traveler Leave a Comment

Joan of Arc

This year France is celebrating the 600th anniversary of Jeanne d’Arc, known as the Pucelle d’Orléans, or the Maid of Orléans. So where can one learn more about this iconic French figure?

  • Visit her native village, Domrémy-la-Pucelle in the region of Lorraine in Eastern France. There, you can roam through the family home where she was born in 1412 and visit the church where she was baptized. The museum in Domrémy is dedicated to her life and times.
  • In the city of Orléans, where as a young girl she famously repelled English invaders during the Hundred Years War, visit the Centre Jeanne d’Arc which houses a huge collection of documents relating to her.
  • Joan of ArcIn the city of Rouen in Normandy, Joan of Arc was condemned for heresy and burned at the stake by the English occupiers of that city, in 1431. Here you can visit several sites commemorating the heroine: the Pucelle’s Tower where she was imprisoned before her trial, the Boideldieu Bridge where her ashes were scattered into the Seine, and the flower garden at the Place du Vieux-Marché which now marks the place where she died.
  • For armchair travelers curious about the French heroine, sources abound. Just published this year is the 1,000-pageJeanne d’Arc, Histoire et Dictionnaire, as well as a fictionalized biography by well-known French author Max Gallo. Numerous biographies have been published in English as well as French, including those by Régine Pernoud, Andrew Lang and even Mark Twain.
  • Joan of Arc has been the subject of many films, as well, including the 2005 documentary entitled Joan of Arc: Child of War Soldier of God, the 1948 movie about Joan of Arc starring Ingrid Bergman, and the classic silent film made in 1928 by Carl Dreyer: La Passion de Jeanne d’Arc.

Filed Under: French customs & culture

The national holidays in May in France

May 13, 2012 by Valerie Sutter, Director, The French Traveler Leave a Comment

The month of May is always an exciting time in France with the beginning of warmer weather, Labor Day celebrations, la Fête du Muguet and a host of other holidays.

  • May is when temperatures really start to warm up in France. “Avril, ne te découvre pas d’un fil; mai, fais ce qu’il te plaît!” is French for: “April showers bring May flowers.” (Literally: In April, better keep your warm clothes on; in May, do as you like!)
  • May 1st is a national holiday, the French equivalent of Labor Day, or la Fête du Travail. Most everything is closed except for restaurants, churches, and some museums and monuments such as the Eiffel Tower. Limited public transportation may be running; however, you just might have trouble reaching your destination due to street demonstrations. Better take to the streets yourself and join the celebrations for workers’ rights (or whatever cause you may fancy!)
  • May 1st is also known as la Fête du Muguet, or Lily of the Valley Day. Mais pourquoi? Well, according to legend, King Charles IX received a bunch of these sweet-smellingwarm weather and national holidays flowers on May 1st, 1561, as a good luck charm. Ever since, it is traditional for family, friends and neighbors to exchange a small sprig as a goodwill gesture. You may find lily-of-the valley growing naturally in woods and gardens in France, but don’t worry: vendors will be selling bunches of the flower on every street corner.Other May holidays include: May 8th, la Fete de la Victoire which commemorates the end of World War II, the Catholic holidays of Ascension and Pentecost, and finally, Mother’s Day, which always falls on the last Sunday of the month.
  • If you’re in France during this month, you’ll get to learn the idiomatic expression “faire le pont” (literally, “make the bridge”) which refers to the time taken off on days surrounding a national holiday, exemplifying the French passion for extra leisure time. For example, this year’s May 1 Fete du Travail falls on a Tuesday. Many businesses will close on Monday April 30 to “faire le pont” until Wednesday and make an extra long weekend of it. Ditto for Thursday, May 17, the Ascension: many businesses will close on Friday, May 18 for another long weekend. Sometimes, there are so many “ponts” during the month of May that it’s really more like “faire le viaduc!”

 

Filed Under: French customs & culture, seasons

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