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A primer on Les Miserables

January 13, 2013 by Valerie Sutter, Director, The French Traveler Leave a Comment

Les MiserablesAlthough Victor Hugo’s 1862 novel is unparalleled in magnificent prose, intricate plot and character development, most of us will not bother to read his 1200+-page story. But now that this epic romance has gone from Broadway musical to Hollywood’s screen, here’s a primer on the plot, which doesn’t give justice to Hugo’s prose but may facilitate following the complicated story. For those of you who were busy writing love notes during your high school European history classes, you might want to brush up on the 1815 Battle of Waterloo and the French uprisings of the 19th century, especially that of 1832, to fully understand the historical backdrop of the novel.

In Les Miserables, Jean Valjean, the protagonist, has been jailed for 19 years for stealing a loaf of bread. When Valjean is released from prison, he foolishly steals silver from the bishop in Digne. When the bishop mercifully pretends to the police that the silver was a gift, thereby securing Valjean’s release, Valjean realizes that now his life must be dedicated to good.

Eager to fulfill his promise of virtue, he masks his identity and makes a new start in a village in the north of France. He changes his name to Madeleine, invents a manufacturing process which brings the town prosperity, eventually becomes mayor of the town and is beloved by the people. Along the way, he befriends Fantine, a single mother who has been arrested for prostitution and is dying. As a deathbed promise, he agrees to look after Fantine’s 10-yr-old daughter Cosette, who was living with a nasty, abusive couple called the Thénardiers. So begins the tender and tragic story of Valjean’s relationship with sweet little Cosette. He buys her from the Thénardiers and takes her to Paris as promised, to raise her and begin life anew, first in a monastery and then in the city.

The antagonist and Valjean’s tormentor is Javert, a single-minded, law-obsessed police chief of the village who sees justice only in narrow terms.  Javert has discovered Valjean’s criminal past and vows to hunt and punish him. The story progresses, and Cosette grows up. She falls in love with Marius, who is intimately involved with the uprisings against the government in 1832, but Valjean fears this union of his precious daughter and Marius.

Meanwhile, Javert moves to Paris and picks up the scent of his old adversary who is once again forced to flee Javert’s vengeance. Violence erupts just then in Paris as the revolutionaries set up barricades. Valjean attempts to rescue Marius from a terrible fate, but is thwarted. At the same time, Javert, hunting Valjean, is captured by the revolutionaries who want to execute him. Valjean offers to do the deed but in a show of kindness reminiscent of the bishop’s kindness to him, he secretly lets Javert go free, and then carries a wounded Marius through the Paris sewers to escape only to be caught once again by Javert.

Javert, tormented, is torn between his duty to his profession and the debt he owes Valjean for saving his life. Unable to reconcile his mixed emotions, Javert chooses to plunge into the River Seine in one of the most moving scenes of the novel/musical/movie.

Cosette and Marius are finally married, but the Thénardiers resurface and tell Marius the truth about Valjean’s past, hoping to ruin Cosette’s relationship with her father. Marius tries initially to separate Cosette from her adopted father upon learning this. Only when Marius discovers that it was Valjean who saved his life in the sewers during the rebellion does he rush to Valjean’s side, with Cosette, to bid adieu to Valjean on his deathbed. Reunited with his beloved Cosette and finally free from his nemesis Javert, Valjean dies in peace.

 

The online copy of Les Miserables.

Filed Under: French films/films about France

The upcoming French presidential election

December 26, 2012 by Valerie Sutter, Director, The French Traveler Leave a Comment

Elections présidentielles

It’s election time in France with the upcoming elections known as Les Presidentielles. The French vote for their president in two rounds, spaced two weeks apart, the first round of which will be held on Sunday April 22, 2012. If there is no decisive winner (50% + 1) on the first round, the run-off between the top two polling candidates will be held on Sunday, May 6, 2012. In order to be a legitimate candidate, a person must first obtain the signatures of 500 elected representatives; ten candidates qualified in 2012.

Here, appearing in alphabetical order are the ten candidates for Président (or Présidente) de la République française 2012, their political party affiliation, and the slogan of their campaign. Drumroll…..

• Nathalie Arthaud, 42 years old, from the political party Lutte Ouvrière (Workers’ Struggle). Slogan: “Une candidate communiste.”

• François Bayrou, 60 years old, from the Mouvement Démocrate party. Slogan: “Un pays uni, rien ne lui résiste” (Nothing Resists A United Country).

• Jacques Cheminade, 71, from the party called Solidarité et progrès (Solidarity and Progress). Slogan : « Le sursaut » (The Jump).

• Nicolas Dupont-Aignan, 51, from the party Debout la République (Republic, Rise up) with the slogan: “Pour une France libre” (For a Free France).

• François Hollande, 57, Socialist party, slogan: “Le changement, c’est maintenant” (Change is Now).

• Eva Joly, 68, from the environmental party known as Europe Ecologie, with slogan « Le vote juste » (The Just Vote).

• Marine Le Pen, 43, from the Front National (National Front party), with the slogan: “La voix du peuple, l’esprit de la France.” (The Voice of the People, The Spirit of France).

• Jean-Luc Mélanchon, 60, from the Parti de Gauche (The Party of the Left). Slogan: “Prenez le pouvoir” (Take Power).

• Philippe Poutou, 45, from the party called: Nouveau parti anticapitaliste (New Anti-Capitalist party). Slogan: “Aux capitalistes de payer leur crise” (Let the Capitalists Pay for Their Crisis).

• Nicolas Sarkozy, 57, from the Union pour un movement populaire (Union for a popular movement). Slogan: “La France forte” (Strong France).

This is a closely watched french presidential election, and polls vary wildly as to the winner, which currently suggest either François Holland or Nicholas Sarkozy in the second round. Whoever wins will preside over the republic for a five-year term. Vive la République !

french presidential election candidates

Source: Website Franc-parler http://www.francparler.org/parcours/politique_election.htm

Filed Under: French customs & culture

The beautiful Dordogne Valley, France

December 26, 2012 by Valerie Sutter, Director, The French Traveler Leave a Comment

Named for its majestic river and beautiful valley, the department of Dordogne in south west France is one of the five departments making up the region of Aquitaine. Endowed with a soft, gentle beauty (in contrast to the dramatic extremes of Provence, for example), this region is rich with history, scenic landscapes and charming villages, and is one of France’s favorite vacation destinations. Not only a land of mystical troubadours, but one of reasonable thinkers, the area has produced such statesmen and writers as Montaigne, Fénelon, La Boétie and Montesquieu. Other interesting finds in the Dordogne:

  • St Cirq surplomb la riviere in DordogneCastles – over a thousand of them, more than any other region in France — are scattered throughout the area: Castelnaud, Montbazillac, Hautefort, Eyrignac….Many of them receive visitors, some cultivate wine, and some even have bed-and-breakfast capabilities. You’ll think you’ve entered a fairy tale!
  • Historical towns such as medieval Sarlat, Nontron and Bournat boast beautiful medieval architecture, pedestrian streets, scenic views and specialty shops. On the scenic Vézère river lies Saint Léon-sur-Vézère, which has been classified as one of the “most beautiful villages of France.” And St-Cirq Lapopie and Rocamadour, perched atop impossible cliffs, are simply breathtaking.
  • Prehistoric sites, especially in the Vézère valley, dominate the region. You’ll find the famous Lascaux cave paintings as well as other caves, troglodyte dwellings and prehistoric sculptures. Beautifully preserved and tourist-friendly, these sites make you feel like you’re in a time machine going back centuries, providing a great appreciation for our fellow mankind of yesteryear.
  • Delicious regional cuisine, combined with excellent wine, helps to clear your thinking: enjoy truffles, fois gras, duck, garlic soup, and sweet white Bergerac wines as you glide down the Dordogne River on one of the charming gabares which motor indulgently along the river.
  • Festivals are celebrated all summer long in each of the towns in the Dordogne. Likely honoring a patron saint, the town dresses itself up, hosts a parade, wine tasting, communal picnicking, a bal musette (accordion songs to which the locals dance), and good general animation. Great fun to attend and watch.

Want to practice your French while touring this beautiful area? French teachers and other francophones are welcome to join our Extension Tour to the Dordogne July 26-29, 2012 to immerse themselves in the language and culture of this region, while enjoying the subtle beauty and excellent cuisine of the Dordogne. Click here for details.

Filed Under: French towns & villages, Towns & villages

The Revolt against Fast Food in France

December 26, 2012 by Valerie Sutter, Director, The French Traveler Leave a Comment

When American-style fast food began to “invade” France in the late 1970s, it was deemed to be a passing fad, not able to catch on to sacrosanct traditions of leisurely French dining. How could a 20-minute hamburger & coke possibly supplant a 2-hour, 3-course lunch? Fast-forward thirty years: fast food has not gone away. It has proliferated. Surprisingly, even the French have changed and embraced sloppy food habits, falling victim in the process to some of the same ills Americans have once food becomes available 24/7.

fast food in France

The French press has written extensively about the rise of obesity amongst the usually-trim French, and has long railed that the strong French tradition of family dining and convivial meals has gradually dissipated in the face of “la malbouffe” (junk food). French fast food seems to be gaining popularity still. The stories in the press point to an increasing lack of food awareness in a nation that prides itself on its culinary traditions. The most recent and serious attack has come from Xavier Denamur, a disenchanted French chef, owner of a classic brasserie in the trendy Marais district, who saw the lowering of the 19.6% sales tax on food to a mere 5.5% as a political move by then-president Nicolas Sarkozy to salvage votes from the extreme right. The result, Denamur felt, was a devaluing of the relatively high standards of food production in France. To make his point, Denamur teamed up with director Jacques Goldstein to produce a forceful documentary against the widespread harm of junk food; “La République de la Malbouffe” is roiling the French food establishment. Watch the trailer HERE:

MacDo anyone?

Filed Under: French customs & culture, French food

French Christmas: Noel in France

December 7, 2012 by Valerie Sutter, Director, The French Traveler 25 Comments

French Christmas: Noel in France

Now that Christmas is finally upon us, do you know about these Christmas traditions in France?

  • In some regions of France the Christmas season starts on December 6th, St. Nicholas Day, and is celebrated by exchanging gifts in memory of the historical 4th century saint renowned for his generosity.
  • Most French people celebrate Christmas on December 24th with a huge meal eaten after midnight mass called le réveillon, which may include: goose, turkey, chestnuts, paté de foie gras (goose liver pâté), boudin rouge (blood sausage), or boudin blanc, oysters, and of course for dessert the bûche de Noël, a rich, creamy sponge-like cake in the shape of a Yule log.
  • Tradition has it that on Christmas Eve in France, children would leave their shoes out (not stockings!) in front of the fireplace for le Père Noël to fill with treats and toys. In some regions, especially eastern France, le Père Fouettard (the “Whipping Father”) would come if children had been naughty, not nice.
  • In the south of France, people in the countryside may leave a Yule log burning in their fireplaces during the Christmas season to ensure a good harvest.
  • In Provence, the traditional meal ends with a parade of les treize desserts—the 13 desserts!
  • Most people in France do not decorate the outside of their homes; municipalities, on the other hand, adorn the public spaces with holiday lights and organize reenactments of the nativity story in town squares.
  • French families may set out a crèche, or nativity scene; in the south of France this includes santons (little saints) which are clay figurines depicting not only the holy family, shepherds and wise men, but the townspeople as well.
  • Christmas markets are another holiday tradition in France, especially in the Alsace region, where you can buy all sorts of special foods as well as arts and crafts typical for the season.
  • At Christmastime you will hear traditional carols, both religious and non-religious, such as: Il est né le divin enfant, Un flambleau Jeannette Isabelle, Vive le vent (Jingle Bells) and Mon beau sapin (Oh Christmas Tree). They even have a version of Rudolf the Red-Nosed Reindeer (Le petit renne au nez rouge…). And of course Petit papa noël sung by Tino Rossi is a Christmas favorite.
  • The Christmas season ends in early January with the feast of the Epiphany and the Fête des Rois (Feast of the Magi).

Joyeuses fêtes à tous!

Filed Under: French customs & culture, seasons

Avignon, la sonneuse de joie

September 29, 2012 by Valerie Sutter, Director, The French Traveler Leave a Comment

Popes' Palace, Avignon FranceThinking of visiting Provence? Then mark your maps for a stopover in Avignon. Located in the south of France in the department of the Vauclause, Avignon is a beautiful city surrounded by medieval ramparts in the heart of Provence. During the fourteenth century, it became the residence of the Popes. As a result of the Great Schism—the great division between the Roman Catholic Church and the Eastern Orthodox Church—the Roman Church re-established itself in Avignon, and to recognize this fact, Le Palais des Papes was constructed in 1335, under Pope Benedict XII and his successor, Pope Clement VI. Now recognized as a UNESCO world heritage site, it holds 15,000 square meters of living space, making it the largest Gothic palace in the world.

A visit to the Palais is a must. The magnificence of yesteryear is felt throughout the entire palace, although today empty, but the guides revive history in the empty rooms and recount the lustrous meals, the costly guards, and the elegance of the papal reign. The cost of admission: 10.50€, reduced: 8.50€. Tours and cultural events are offered throughout the year.

The city of Avignon is surrounded by ramparts, built since 1355 to protect and fortify the city from mercenary assaults. There is no cost to see them. They provide a beautiful view of the city, and add to its intoxicating medieval charm.

Another UNESCO world heritage site found in Avignon is the famous Pont d’Avignon, also known as the Saint Bénezet Bridge which Le Pont d'Avignonoverlooks the Rhone River. Built in the twelfth century, it collapsed several times due to the flooding of the river. The bridge underwent several reconstructions, but a flood in the 17th century finally put the bridge out of commission. Now only a few of the bridge’s arches remain today. The famous children’s song “Sur le Pont d’Avignon” references this bridge, providing its listeners with the historical and cultural significance, since the Middle Ages. To visit the Pont d’Avignon, it costs 3.50€ as a reduced admission, 4.50€ for a regular admission.

Amongst the other landmarks to see in Avignon is the beautiful Cathédrale Notre Dame des Doms, constructed in 1037. Since then, the cathedral has undergone much reconstruction and expansion, the last of which took place near the end of the 17th century. Admission is free to the general public. The Musée Calvet (the museum of art and archeology) and the Musée Angladon (more contemporary art, impressionist art) are also well worth seeing.

Host to one of the most innovative and successful theatre festivals in the world every summer in the month of July), Avignon has much to offer to its visitors. Its charm, history, culture, mild climate, and welcoming people make this city a must-see while traveling in France.

 

Filed Under: French towns & villages, Towns & villages

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