The French Traveler

Guided Tours of France - Immersion Tours

Wines of Provence

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Provence is a popular region for tourists.  They flock to sites such as the Pont du Gard; the cities of Nîmes and Arles, and Avignon to see Roman ruins and the lavender fields.  However, the Provençal region is known for more than artists and architecture – it is also celebrated for its wines.

Vineyards & lavender fields = Provence

Vineyards & lavender fields = Provence

Provence has been producing wine since the Greeks founded the city of Marseilles. It contains eight major wine regions with AOC designations.  These regions produce red and white wine, but the most popular wine of the area is rosé.

Vineyard in Provence

Vineyard in Provence

Rosé is created in many of the AOC designated areas in Provence, but the Côtes de Provence AOC accounts for nearly 80% of this prolific region’s wine. Other regions in Provence are Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence, Bandol, Cassis, Coteaux Varois.

Rosé is not a blend of red and white wine, but is made from red, black or purple grapes.  Provençal winemakers use the red grape varieties that are found in the region.  The main grape varieties found in this region are carignan, cinsaut, Grenache, mourdèvre and tibouren, as well as cabneret sauvignon and syrah.  What gives rosé its pink hue is the fact that rosé producers keep the grape skins in contact with the juice for only a brief time.  After that, the pink-tinted juice is drained from the skins.  Rosé is not just one color; the wine can range from a pale pink to a deeper shade of salmon or coral.  The flavor of rosé tends to be a more subtle version of the red wine varietals; one can taste strawberry, cherry, raspberry with some citrus and even watermelon.  This kind of wine is perfect for spring and summer, and is usually served chilled.

Wine museum at Chateau Turcan

Wine museum at Chateau Turcan

Now that you are in the Provençal region, you have found your appellation and now you want to drink it.  What goes well with rosé?  Well, almost anything!  Rosé can handle both the steak and seafood of a “surf and turf” entrée, and can also go with the sandwiches, fruit and salads that accompany a picnic.  Rosés can also go with a backyard barbecue.  Like spicy food?  Rosé can handle that, too, and pairs well with spicy meats and dishes.  And, if you’d like, you can have just a glass of rosé while you enjoy the sunset with friends.

Enjoy a glass of wine with friends

Enjoy a glass of wine with friends

The next time you’re in Provence, make sure that you stop by to visit a winery in some of the AOC regions of the province.  Buy a bottle or two, visit the local charcuterie and boulangerie, and enjoy the how the flavors meld together as you eat.

 

For more information:

http://www.frenchtraveler.com/our-provence-wine-tour/

http://www.provencewineusa.com

www.buzzfeed.com/rachelysanders/what-you-need-to-know-about-rose-wine-facts

http://wine.about.com/

http://www.i-winereview.com/FoodWinePairingAdventures/1004rose.php

http://www.terroir-france.com/wine/provence.htm

 

Paris in the rain–don’t despair!

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If your visit to Paris happens to coincide with the regular monsoons which besiege Paris, don’t let them get you down!  There is as much to do INSIDE Paris as out….here are a few ideas off the beaten track, aside from the regular ones you’ve already tried:

1)      Unusual museums.  We’ll leave the Louvre and the Musée d’Orsay aside; even the Rodin and the Jacquemart André, two other wonderful Paris museums, and even the Orangerie and the Jeu de Paume.  There are still 250 more!  Here are a couple of consider:

  1. The Marmottan: a tribute to Monet and other Impressionists, 2, rue Louis-Boilly 75016 Paris France; Tél. : 01 44 96 50 33.
    Andre Maillol

    Andre Maillol

    Metro  La Muette (line 9).  Closed Mondays.

  2. The Musée Maillot: for lovers of sculpture, often considered the greatest French sculptor after Rodin.  59-61 Rue de Grenelle, 75007 Paris.  Tel 01 42 22 59 58.  Metro Rue du Bac (line 12).  Closed Tuesdays.
  3. Le Musée du Cristal de Baccarat : a truly breathtaking collection of cristals, glass, vases and dishes produced in 19th and 20th centuries by one of the most famous French manufacturers.  Also houses a delightful restaurant, overlooking the Place des Etats-Unis.   Recently relocated to 11, place des Etats-Unis, 75116 Paris.  Metro Iena, line 9.  Closed Mondays.
  4. Le Musée Cognac-Jay: Tucked away on a quiet street in the Mrais, a triumph of restoration, a beautifully furnished interior suggestive of how the upper classes lived in 18th century France.  8 rue Elzévir, 75003 Paris. Tel: 01 40 27 07 21. Metro St. Paul (line 1) Closed Mondays.
Paris sewers, c. 1900

Paris sewers, c. 1900

2)      The sewers of Paris. Since you’re already wet and soggy, why not visit the most humid monument in Paris, les égouts de Paris.   A tribute to 19th century city planning, Closed Thursdays & Fridays.  Located in front of 93, quai d’Orsay, Paris 7e. Metro Pont de l’Alma

3)      Spa Anne Fontaine .  An underground steam room, hamman-style, and several different soins are offered in this elegant tasteful spa boutique of 5000 sq ft.  Created in 2008, as many men frequent the spa as women, attesting to the power of word of mouth.  370, rue Saint-Honoré, Paris 1er. Tél. : 01 42 61 03 70.  Reservations only.

4)      Wine tasting at O Chateau .  A giagantic hit by a young French entrepreneur, this hip spot proposes wine tastings of all sorts, wine courses, and delicious meals.  Now located in a delightful hotel particulier built by Mme de Pompadour.  In the 18th century,  lieu propose trois salons de dégustation aux décors cosy, privatisables gratuitement, à partir de 6-7 personnes. Pour la petite histoire, cet hôtel particulier construit dans les années 1640 a appartenu à Mme de Pompadour. Au XVIIIe siècle, Louise-Marie Dupin, aïeule de George Sand, y tenait un salon fréquenté, entre autres, par Voltaire et Rousseau. 68, rue Jean-Jacques-Rousseau, Paris 1er Tél. : 01 44 73 97 80.

5)      The hot chocolate cure.  There’s nothing like Angelina’s thick, rich, old fashioned hot chocolate  accompanied by its own jar of

Paris's best hot chocolate

Paris’s best hot chocolate

whipped cream to perk you up on a rainy day.  Her tea salon on the Rue de Rivoli [226 rue de Rivoli, Paris 1er, Tel 01.42.60.82.00] is open daily. 7:30 am to 7 pm, but is often crowded and lines of eager tourists snake around the corner, so you might consider partaking of this divine beverage at the Galeries Lafayette on the Boulevard Haussman (1st floor, Mode des Femmes), or in the Tea Salon of the Jardin de Luxumbourg, 19, rue de Vaugirard , Paris 6 ème . 01.46.34.31.19

6)      The crypte at Notre Dame de Paris is considered the most important archaeological crypt in Europe. Indeed, it preserves the foundations and vestiges of buildings which were constructed between the Gallo-Roman period and the 18th century.  Life and settings of the Ile de la Cité from the 3rd to the 19th centuries.  Closed Mondays.  Metro Cité; RER, Saint-Michel/Notre Dame.

7)      The covered passages of the 19th century: Les Passages Couverts.  A magnificent series of covered passageways which

Passages couverts de Paris

Passages couverts de Paris

allowed our 19th century belles to do their shopping and visiting in the rain without getting wet—a forerunner of the modern day mall—these covered passages are both architecturally stunning and delightfully practical. You can shop, eat, browse, walk around….there are several different passageways, each more interesting than the next.  Try the Passage Verdeau which starts on the rue Faubourg Montmartre in the 9th and continues across the Boulevard Poissoniere to become the Passage Panorama in the 2nd.  Another is the Galerie Vivienne, spectacular, behind the Palais Royal, off the rue des Petits Champs in the 2nd.

8)      The galeries of the Palais Royal: discover the excellent second-hand shops which sell vintage Chanel and Dior in these lovely passageways designed in the 19th century.  Several good tea salons and restaurants here as well.   Galerie de Montpensier, Paris 2e.

Traveling lightly in France

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Chose one!

Chose one!

When you’re traveling in France, whether it be for a week, a month, or a year, TRAVEL LIGHTLY.   Particularly if you travel by train or plane throughout the country, or even just trailing your suitcase behind you for a couple of blocks in Paris, it is best for your back (shoulders, knees, wrists) to pack lightly, intelligently, and succinctly. One suitcase should suffice if you plan well, preferably one you can lift yourself when it’s full.  You will need a blend of mostly casual clothes with one or two evening outfits.  Hotel rooms are small in Europe, much smaller than their American counterparts.  Storage space is often sparse; hangers are occasionally just a figment of your imagination.

As a traveler, you probably won’t be seen by the same people twice, so who cares if you wear the same things two days in a row?  My simple rule of thumb is a rule of threes: everything I pack must be able to be worn with three other things.  Hence, my black pants must be able to be coordinated with my green blouse, my blue T-shirt, and my white jacket.  My green blouse must also be able to be coordinated with my white pants, my blue jeans, and my black pants. And so on.  For women, who are often confronted with the famous SHOE dilemma, here’s a rule of thumb: a pair comfortable walking shoes, low flats, and changeable sandals work well for summer fare; one pair of boots and closed-toed shoes are good for the fall/cooler seasons.  For men, polo shirts, a collared shirt, and a couple of nice T-shirts work well in the summer; collared shirts and a simple jacket which can be work both with jeans and slacks are good in the cooler months.

Black is a great color to pack, not only because it’s so versatile and doesn’t show the dirt, but because it’s so very French.  Dress is down with a casual shirt; dress it up with accessories (earrings, cuff links, belt, shoes) and you’ve got an evening outfit.

If you travel on European trains or planes, storage space is at a premium, and checked baggage is expensive.  Bring a carry-on where you can, not only for easy storing in the trains/planes but for carting off the platforms and passageways.

Take a few tips from the King of Packing: Louis Vuitton. Click on this short video helps you visualize how to make the best of your suitcase.  Bon voyage!   www.frenchtraveler.com

Chateau de Chantilly

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Chateau de ChantillyA short ride northeast of Paris lies the stunningly beautiful Chateau de Chantilly.  Beautiful forest, elegant chateau, first-class museum, a fine equestrian center, a romantic new luxurious hotel, polo, golf, and gastronomic meals make this a perfect Paris getaway.

Constructed in the fourteenth century by the Chancellor of Orgemont, the chateau remained in different branches of the same family for centuries.  Because of its beauty and architecture, it retained a stately place alongside Versailles, Fontainebleau, Vaux-le-Vicomte, Ecouen, etc for its princely families.

Its breathtaking gardens were designed by André LeNotre at the end of the seventeenthChantilly parterres LeNotre century.  The parterre à la française of Chantilly offers the most dazzling view points of the visit. It includes vast water mirrors reflecting the sky, many hosepipes and fountains as well as a statuary program of great quality. Of all the gardens created by the illustrious artist, Chantilly was Le Nôtre’s favorite accomplishment.   He drew a great perspective that begins at the honor gate and ends at the statue of Anne de Montmorency, extending to the other side of the Grand Canal, up to the forest, making Chantilly the only garden created by the landscaper of Versailles that is in line with a statue, rather than with the chateau.  The Grand Canal of Chantilly (1.5miles) exceeds by far that of Versailles; of all of the Le Nôtre gardens, the gardens à la française of Chantilly feature the largest water expanse.

At the heart of this storied château is its superb museum and equestrian center. Housing some of the country’s most important collections of old masters outside the Louvre, the museum is an architectural jewel on a human scale.  The equestrian center, also a museum, portrays brilliantly life as it used to be when horses reigned; live shows, a riding academy, and an active blog keep the equestrian life alive and well today.

And now, to top it all, a romantic new hotel called the Auberge du Jeu de Paume has been constructed in neo-eighteenth century style on the grounds.  A luxurious 4-star hotel with 92 bedrooms and suites, enhanced by two excellent restaurants headed by award-winning chef Arnaud Faye (formerly of the Ritz Paris and Mandarin Oriental hotels) and a stunning 6000 sq ft Moorish spa add to its enjoyment.  If that isn’t enough to complete a country escape from Paris, there are two golf courses nearby, horseback riding on the property, live concerts, a modern library, and polo at the exclusive Chantilly Polo Club.

Access to Chantilly: The Chantilly Estate is 25 miles from Paris North, accessible by car, trains and RER.  Drive on the Autoroute du Nord (A1), approximately 42 minutes; exit Chantilly.  GPS coordinates  Latitude: N49°11.670, Longitude: E002°28.930.  By train SNCF from the Gare du Nord (24 minutes) or RER from Châtelet-Les Halles (45 minutes).  From the Chantilly train station to the Château, (fixed rate: about 8€): 5 minute ride; or the DUC (Cantilienne Urban Service) is the complimentary bus of Chantilly: departures at the bus station, exit at Chantilly, église Notre-Dame. Walking to the château from the bus station takes approximately 22 minutes.

The history of Boeuf Bourguignon

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Regions of FranceThis well-known dish has its roots from the Burgundy region in France.  Beautiful Burgundy, known in French as “Bourgogne”, is 100 km southeast of Paris, stretching 360 km.  It has more than 2000 communes, and is one of France’s most fascinating regions, known equally for its historical political intrigue as for its dazzling architecture, excellent wines, and rich cuisine.

  Boeuf Bourguignon, a delectable beef stew, celebrates its roots through homage to its prized Charolais cattle.  Reputed for their distinct taste, low fat content, and gentle temperament, the creamy white Charolais bulls,  found around the Charolles region of southern Burdundy, are used extensively in the making of bœuf bourguignon.  The cattle are fed only hay, fodder, and cereal, which produce healthy cows.  The meat is very tender, and used for stewing and grilling.

Today, Boeuf Bourguignon is famous throughout the world, thanks to prodigious French

Burgundy roof tiles

Burgundy roof tiles

chef Auguste Escoffier, who first published the recipe in the early 20th century.  Over time, the recipe evolved from honest peasant fare to haute cuisine, and Escoffier’s 1903 recipe became the standard-bearer, using a whole piece of beef in the stew.  Much later, Julia Child used beef cubes rather than a whole piece, bringing boeuf Bourguignon to the notice of a whole new generation of cooks.

This dish is prepared by braising the beef in a full-bodied, classic red (Burgundy) wine.   It is then stewed with potatoes, carrots, onions, garlic, and well-seasoned (during the stewing process) with a bouquet garni , or a small satchel of thyme, parsley, and bay leaves.   Traditional preparation of this dish is two days, to continually tenderize the meat and to intensify the flavors of the stew.

In late August, celebrations in Bourgogne laud the prized Charolais beef.  There is the “Fête du Charolais”,  a festival that takes place in the Burgundy town of Saulieu.  Musicians, meat lovers and farmers alike gather in the streets, inviting anyone to enjoy an unforgettable gastronomic experience having traditional “Bœuf Bourguignon”.

Try your hand at making it.  Great dish for a large party; best in cool weather.   Recipe for Boeuf Bourguignon: click here.

 

Camembert cheese

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Camembert cheese, bien comme il faut!

Camembert cheese, bien comme il faut!

Ahhh…camembert !  The world-renowned French cheese with its white rind and a rich, creamy interior has its roots steeped in its namesake, the town of Camembert, located in the Orme department of the French region of Basse-Normandy.  The birth of camembert cheese in 1791 has been credited to Marie Harel, a farmer who lived in “Le pays d’Auge”, also known as the Camembert valley.

Here’s a little Camembert quiz for you: Where is the town of Camembert? How many liters of milk does it take to make one Camembert?  What packaging material must the cheese be sold in?

Located 160 kms west of Paris, the town of Camembert has established its very own museum for those curious Francophiles interested in the story behind this cheese.  La Maison du Camembert is a museum that offers a historical adventure, coupled with a cheese tasting to cap the experience.  Explaining everything from the history of the discovery of the cheese, to the visuals of the local area, “Le Pays d’Auge” in the time

Welcome to Camembert!

Welcome to Camembert!

of Marie Harel, to the camembert cheese-making process, the museum shows how camembert cheese-making has (and has not) evolved.  It still takes 2.2 liters of raw cow’s milk to make each Camembert, which must—by law—be packaged in cardboard boxes. Visitors can see the drying room, which is integral to the ripening process of this prized cheese, view its vast historical collection of camembert labels and read about  the well-reputed cheese-making families of France, whose roles were integral in expanding the world’s appreciation for camembert cheese.  It also presents the role of advertising, and its responsibility in widening camembert’s popularity at the turn of the 20th century.  The last display informs visitors of all of the treasures that the region of Normandy has to offer in a film (presented in five different languages).

For anyone interested in gastronomy and French culture, a visit to La Maison du Camembert is well worth the trip. Take the train from Paris to Caen, then rent a car and drive 60 kms south to the village.  The countryside is beautiful and peaceful, and the town of 200 people will appreciate your enthusiasm.  Admission- 3€ for adults aged 14 and up.  Children aged 4-13, 1€; 3 and under- free.   And don’t forget the tasting room!

And now, here’s a great little recipe for a cool autumn day: Camembert soup!

Petite Camembert Soupe au Gratin

This lovely camembert recipe is perfect for cool fall evenings. A soup prepared au gratin, the petite camembert soup features the famous fromage in a delicious blend of bread, spices and white wine.

Ingredients:

Ile de France Camembert

500 g onions

15 cl dry white wine

30 g butter

1 tablespoon of thick crème fraîche

1 tablespoon flour

1 bay leaf

1 tablespoon thyme

4 large slices of bread

1 pinch of cayenne pepper

1 pinch of nutmeg

Salt and pepper

Methods/steps

• Peel the onions, then mince them. Melt the butter in a saucepan, add the minced onions and sweat about 10 minutes on medium heat, stirring occasionally.

•Sprinkle with flour, mix 30 seconds over the fire, then add the white wine. Mix with 80 ounces of water, add thyme and bay leaf. Bring to a simmer. Cook over low heat, covered, about 20 minutes.

•Cut the Camembert in two halves. Put one half aside. Cut the other half into cubes, mix with the crème fraîche, cayenne pepper and nutmeg. Remove the bay leaf. Then, stir the preparation 2 minutes over the fire, without boiling. Remove from heat.

• Pour the hot soup into 4 soup bowls. Bring out the slices of bread and the reserved half of the Camembert. Cut the Camembert into quarters. Cut each quarter into halves, lengthwise. Arrange on the slices of crusted bread. Broil 6 to 8 minutes. (The cheese should melt and start to brown).

 

If you’d like to know more about Camembert Cheese, read this!