The French Traveler

Guided Tours of France - Immersion Tours

Quimper….the oldest city in Brittany

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Quimper

Quimper, Brittany

Located 302 miles slightly south, and due west of Paris, the town of Quimper is in Northwestern Bretagne, or the Lower Brittany region of France.  In Breton (the regional dialect of Brittany), the town name derives from the word “Kemper”, which denotes “confluent,” indicating Quimper’s location at the juncture of the Jet, Odet, and Steir rivers.  The ancient capital of La Cornouaille, it is the oldest town in Brittany, 2000 years old, richly steeped in Gallo-Roman history.

Beautiful Quimper is comprised of three smaller, ancient towns:  the original site, the Bishop’s town, and the Ducal town.

The original Gallo-Roman settlement is Locmaria, which also boasts the 12th century Église de Locmaria (the Church), in Romanesque style architecture.  It also has a medieval garden and priory.

The Bishop’s town showcases the astonishing Palais des Évêques, or Bishops’ Palace, Le Musée Départemental Breton for the history buff, and the ruins of the town walls, since the 15th century.  There are also gorgeous displays of timbered houses, representing the Breton architecture throughout the area.  The streets are named after the famed ancient trades, which brings history to life!

Lastly, the Ducal town presents the charming L’Église St.Mathieu, with its wonderful stained-glass windows.  It is open toCathedrale St Corenti Quimper the public, and well worth the visit.  Don’t miss the beautiful houses of Place Terre au Duc.

La Cathédrale de St. Corentin, a gothic architectural wonder, is a church that has been erected since 1239.  In 1850, the cathedral was restored by the native-born Quimper architect Joseph Biogt, due to its damage sustained from the French Revolution.  The restored stained-glass windows truly reflect the spirit of the 15th century.

Rich in tradition and proud of their culture, the Bretons celebrate with a Festival each year: parades, traditional costumes, bagpipes, flutes and drums, they march proudly throughout the city and have various contests and entertainment..  In 2013, the celebration of 90 years of culture will be celebrated from July 23-28, 2013.  Have a peek at a short video from last year’s festival: click here.

Access is by high-speed train from Paris, about 4-1/2 hrs, or by car.  Degemer mat…Breton for “Welcome!”

Continue reading about Quimper here!

Cognac: the brandy and town

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Cognac, 100 kms north of Bordeaux

Cognac, 100 kms north of Bordeaux

So you think that Cognac is only the name of a famous brandy?  Think again.   The town of Cognac, located north of Bordeaux and southwest of Paris in the “Charentes” department, dates back to prehistoric times some 2400 to 1800 years before the birth of Jesus Christ, as evidenced by its famous dolmen of Sèchebec.

Prehistoric dolmen in Cognac

Prehistoric dolmen in Cognac

A twenty-mile area called the ‘golden circle” of cognac production encompasses Cognac and the second distilling town of Jarnac.  The entire region comprises of six areas: La Grande Champagne, La Petite Champagne, Les Borderies, Les Fins Bois, Les Bons Bois and Les Bois Ordinaires or “à terroir”.

Its strategic location on the slow-moving Charente River allowed it to develop commerce beginning in the Middle Ages, notably salt and then gradually, its wine.  In the 17th century, under Louis XIV. the commerce that developed is referred to as Cognac’s production of “eaux-de-vie”, its renowned brandy industry. (For those curious Francophiles, the term “eaux-de-vie” literally translates to “the waters of life”, lending to its importance and how well-loved cognac is around the world).

Distilling the grapes

Distilling the grapes

A special white grape (the “ugni blanc”) is used to produce cognac.  It is first produced as wine, and then it goes through a second distillation, through the famous stills of the Charentes.  Only after this distillation does the wine turn into cognac.  It will then age in oak barrels for at least 2½ years.   At that time, the cognac is then ready for market sale.

There are three main categories for cognac.  Each category is defined based on the growth area of the grape, and the blending of the “eaux-de-vie” of various ages.  The first category is V.S. (also denoted as ***), which indicates that the “eaux-de-vie” in the blend has aged for the minimum 2½ years.  The second category is V.S.O.P.- 4½ years for Very Superior Old Pale.  Lastly, the third category is Napoléon, or X.O.- 6½ years.

Cognac’s distinction from other alcohol depends on the following four conditions:  the vines (unique to the Charentes region), the double distillation technique, the ageing process, and the highly coveted “blending” techniques, handed down from generation to generation.  In the ageing process, the oak used is specific from the Limousin or Tronçais forests.  It is the tannins that are passed on from the oak to the alcohol which give cognac its distinctive color and “bouquet”.

It is no small wonder that Cognac is world-renowned for this famous libation.  Cognac comes in many different varieties and flavors, and it may be served in various ways.  A visit to Cognac is a delightful lesson in understanding its most famous export! Continue learning by reading more about Cognac.

Survival Guide: Arriving in France

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Arriving in France can be overwhelming and many Americans find themselves in a bit of a culture shock. If you’re preparing your first trip to France and haven’t already experienced its delights for an extended stay, here are a few quick tips to help you through the first few days….even the first couple of weeks. Give yourself some time before making snap judgments; you’ll be surprised at how quickly the experiences out of your comfort zone can make you either want to run back home or run forward.

France Arrival Survival Guide

Rest up

Jet lag is a huge consumer of energy. Be sure you rest properly before your trip, or as soon after arrival as you possibly can. The Louvre will still be there after your nap!Carrefour supermarket arriving in france
The world outside your comfort zone
Even something as small as shopping at the local supermarket can feel strange, although exhiliarating. Oh my goodness, all that cheese! And the cuts of meat are different. And how do these shopping carts work—why are they all attached together? Allow yourself some time to adjust. Enjoy what you’re seeing. Don’t be afraid to ask questions of other shoppers or personnel. Precede your questions in English with “Excusez-moi, parlez-vous anglais?”
Establish a new routine
Opening and closing times, and particularly meal times, are different in France from the US. Read about dining habits in France if you can before you leave, in order to fit them appropriately into your new schedule. For example, if you plan to eat a midday meal, be mindful that most French restaurants serve lunch from 12-2:30, period. Dinner doesn’t start until 7:30 pm. The only diners you’ll see in the restaurants at 6:30 are Americans. Sundays are sacred in France. No stores are open; brace yourselves for a shopping-free day.
Mind your manners
The French have an intricate system of manners and politeness, instilled in them at a very young age. Visitors to France often inadvertently “break the rules” because they’re unwritten and different from one’s own culture. For example, the French begin each and every verbal interaction with “Bonjour.” If you’re asking your way, you can start by saying Bonjour, to indicate that the conversation is open. And always end, with “Merci. Au revoir.” Other rules of politeness: always excuse yourself (“Pardon”) when you pass in front of someone else, particularly through a doorway; wait until everyone is served their food before beginning to eat your meal; if you’d like more wine (or water or whatever the beverage is), always serve others before you serve yourself; always address the shopkeeper of any store you walk into with “Bonjour Madame/Monsieur” and “Au revoir, Madame/Monsieur.” You’ll be appreciated for being a polite foreigner!
Suspend judgement
There is more than one path to the truth. Each civilization and culture has its own reason to what is perceived as madness. Allow yourself to observe without judgment in your initial dealings with the French. You might find that you even prefer their way of doing this or that, but allowing for their differences will be less stressful. Learn something about their politics and their way of life; you might even enjoy reading their newspapers or their political cartoons.

Political cartoons Le Monde

Cartoonist for Le Monde

Remember the folks back home….but just send a postcard.
In today’s world of interconnectedness, it’s almost impossible to stay away from one’s computer or phone to communicate with your loved ones back home. Remember, however, that you’re in a different routine and environment, and allowing yourself to fully experience it without the interference of the homeland enables you to adjust more quickly.
Get organized!
Write down everything you’d like to do while you’re in France and then plan carefully. Sometimes just figuring out how to get somewhere can take up immense amounts of time. Spend time in the beginning of your trip to make up your wish-list of activities and must-see’s. Make sure what you want to visit is open on that day; check the opening and closing times. Spend time learning the metro system or the road signs if you’re driving. You’ll be able to do what you want to do with a little foresight and planning.

 

Sisteron, gateway to Provence

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SisteronLocated nearly equidistant between Marseilles, Grenoble, and Avignon, lies Sisteron, otherwise known as “the gate to Provence”, in the south of France. Situated 180 km from Nice, it is next to the Durance River, not far from the Alps and the famous Sault plateau.

Originally a prehistoric town, then later a fortified town of the counts of Provence before the 7th century, Sisteron was bestowed to Louis XI in 1483, when it joined the kingdom of France. Less than one hundred years later, the Anglo-Saxon Protestants and the Catholics fought over which side would claim the city and its fortress.
Visitors today may find a plethora of activities to do and places to see within Sisteron. The “Old Town” enchants visitors through its Roman past, along with its architectural splendor and ramparts. The ramparts are known to be the tallest, and best-preserved in France, standing the tests of many battles and time since 1370.

The Citadel, classified as a historic sisteron citadellemonument, is open to the public from the end of March until November 11th. It overlooks the entire city, and it is known as the masterpiece of this city. Visitors may enter the Citadel, which houses a museum with exhibitions, a chapel, and other interesting sights. The Notre Dame et Saint –Thyrse Cathedral is open to the public, and provides guided visits as well as free admission. Sisteron also boasts other religious venues such as St. Dominique and St. Marcel, both free to the public.

Interesting museums abound, such as the Municipal Museum of Earth and Time, with its artifacts to pique the visitor’s interest, offering an explanation for the passage of time in nature. Entry is free. There is also the “Old Sisteron” Museum highlighting its Gallo-Roman history. The Scouting Museum celebrates (Boy Scouts), and the Eco-Museum, which are both free for the entire family.

Sisteron and its environs are a joy to visit, and ideally located en Haute Provence region. Not far from the Sault plateau, known for its beautiful lavender fields, it is family-friendly, full of history, and offers plenty of fascinating activities for the Francophile.

To learn even more about Sisteron, continue here.

A winter getaway in the French Riviera

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Longing for a short but exciting winter reprieve? Try the French Riviera! Both NICE  and neighboring MENTON offer wonderful treats every February, and slightly further afield the region of MARSEILLE/PROVENCE is named 2013 capital of culture with more than 400 cultural events planned throughout the year.

100% made from citrus!

100% made from citrus!

The annual Fête du Citron in Menton coincides each year with the Carnival de Nice, so you can easily enjoy both activities. The LEMON FESTIVAL, now in its 80th year, chooses a theme each year around which its 7000 tons of citrus fruit, principally from Spain and Morocco, are used to fashion dramatic floats and breathtaking sculptures. What more fitting theme this year than Around the World in 80 Days? Begun in 1934 as a way to advertise the prolific growth of its lemon trees, the city of Menton launched a parade and an exhibit to show off its gardens and fruits. An overnight success, the festival took off and developed an aura of its own. You’ll be amazed at the incredible variety and creativity of the giant sculptures and floats. Feb 16-March 6.
The Carnival in Nice is quite an amazing extravaganza to watch. One of the world’s largest

Nice Carnival: the famous "grosses tetes"

Nice Carnival: the famous “grosses tetes”

carnivals, it takes place each year in February, and recently the carnival time has been extended to a three-week period from two. The NICE CARNIVAL  is categorized by giant floats and very large burlesque figures, often fashioned by prominent artists mocking present-day figures in the news. There are a series of programs both public and private to watch, like the Battle of Flowers and the Corso carnavalesque illuminé. Hotels are often crowded at this time of year, but if you travel to the backcountry Riviera you can also find less expensive and less crowded housing.  Feb 16-March 6.

Further west, the region of Marseille/Provence has been designated the 2013 EUROPEAN CULTURE CAPITAL.  Several events are planned in different cities in Provence throughout the year. Here’s an example of how the town of Aix en Provence celebrated the

Culture 2013: trees dressed up!

Culture 2013: trees dressed up!

opening of the event, by decorating its trees.

 

A primer on Les Miserables

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Les MiserablesAlthough Victor Hugo’s 1862 novel is unparalleled in magnificent prose, intricate plot and character development, most of us will not bother to read his 1200+-page story. But now that this epic romance has gone from Broadway musical to Hollywood’s screen, here’s a primer on the plot, which doesn’t give justice to Hugo’s prose but may facilitate following the complicated story. For those of you who were busy writing love notes during your high school European history classes, you might want to brush up on the 1815 Battle of Waterloo and the French uprisings of the 19th century, especially that of 1832, to fully understand the historical backdrop of the novel.

In Les Miserables, Jean Valjean, the protagonist, has been jailed for 19 years for stealing a loaf of bread. When Valjean is released from prison, he foolishly steals silver from the bishop in Digne. When the bishop mercifully pretends to the police that the silver was a gift, thereby securing Valjean’s release, Valjean realizes that now his life must be dedicated to good.

Eager to fulfill his promise of virtue, he masks his identity and makes a new start in a village in the north of France. He changes his name to Madeleine, invents a manufacturing process which brings the town prosperity, eventually becomes mayor of the town and is beloved by the people. Along the way, he befriends Fantine, a single mother who has been arrested for prostitution and is dying. As a deathbed promise, he agrees to look after Fantine’s 10-yr-old daughter Cosette, who was living with a nasty, abusive couple called the Thénardiers. So begins the tender and tragic story of Valjean’s relationship with sweet little Cosette. He buys her from the Thénardiers and takes her to Paris as promised, to raise her and begin life anew, first in a monastery and then in the city.

The antagonist and Valjean’s tormentor is Javert, a single-minded, law-obsessed police chief of the village who sees justice only in narrow terms.  Javert has discovered Valjean’s criminal past and vows to hunt and punish him. The story progresses, and Cosette grows up. She falls in love with Marius, who is intimately involved with the uprisings against the government in 1832, but Valjean fears this union of his precious daughter and Marius.

Meanwhile, Javert moves to Paris and picks up the scent of his old adversary who is once again forced to flee Javert’s vengeance. Violence erupts just then in Paris as the revolutionaries set up barricades. Valjean attempts to rescue Marius from a terrible fate, but is thwarted. At the same time, Javert, hunting Valjean, is captured by the revolutionaries who want to execute him. Valjean offers to do the deed but in a show of kindness reminiscent of the bishop’s kindness to him, he secretly lets Javert go free, and then carries a wounded Marius through the Paris sewers to escape only to be caught once again by Javert.

Javert, tormented, is torn between his duty to his profession and the debt he owes Valjean for saving his life. Unable to reconcile his mixed emotions, Javert chooses to plunge into the River Seine in one of the most moving scenes of the novel/musical/movie.

Cosette and Marius are finally married, but the Thénardiers resurface and tell Marius the truth about Valjean’s past, hoping to ruin Cosette’s relationship with her father. Marius tries initially to separate Cosette from her adopted father upon learning this. Only when Marius discovers that it was Valjean who saved his life in the sewers during the rebellion does he rush to Valjean’s side, with Cosette, to bid adieu to Valjean on his deathbed. Reunited with his beloved Cosette and finally free from his nemesis Javert, Valjean dies in peace.

 

The online copy of Les Miserables.

The upcoming French presidential election

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Elections présidentielles

It’s election time in France with the upcoming elections known as Les Presidentielles. The French vote for their president in two rounds, spaced two weeks apart, the first round of which will be held on Sunday April 22, 2012. If there is no decisive winner (50% + 1) on the first round, the run-off between the top two polling candidates will be held on Sunday, May 6, 2012. In order to be a legitimate candidate, a person must first obtain the signatures of 500 elected representatives; ten candidates qualified in 2012.

Here, appearing in alphabetical order are the ten candidates for Président (or Présidente) de la République française 2012, their political party affiliation, and the slogan of their campaign. Drumroll…..

• Nathalie Arthaud, 42 years old, from the political party Lutte Ouvrière (Workers’ Struggle). Slogan: “Une candidate communiste.”

• François Bayrou, 60 years old, from the Mouvement Démocrate party. Slogan: “Un pays uni, rien ne lui résiste” (Nothing Resists A United Country).

• Jacques Cheminade, 71, from the party called Solidarité et progrès (Solidarity and Progress). Slogan : « Le sursaut » (The Jump).

• Nicolas Dupont-Aignan, 51, from the party Debout la République (Republic, Rise up) with the slogan: “Pour une France libre” (For a Free France).

• François Hollande, 57, Socialist party, slogan: “Le changement, c’est maintenant” (Change is Now).

• Eva Joly, 68, from the environmental party known as Europe Ecologie, with slogan « Le vote juste » (The Just Vote).

• Marine Le Pen, 43, from the Front National (National Front party), with the slogan: “La voix du peuple, l’esprit de la France.” (The Voice of the People, The Spirit of France).

• Jean-Luc Mélanchon, 60, from the Parti de Gauche (The Party of the Left). Slogan: “Prenez le pouvoir” (Take Power).

• Philippe Poutou, 45, from the party called: Nouveau parti anticapitaliste (New Anti-Capitalist party). Slogan: “Aux capitalistes de payer leur crise” (Let the Capitalists Pay for Their Crisis).

• Nicolas Sarkozy, 57, from the Union pour un movement populaire (Union for a popular movement). Slogan: “La France forte” (Strong France).

This is a closely watched french presidential election, and polls vary wildly as to the winner, which currently suggest either François Holland or Nicholas Sarkozy in the second round. Whoever wins will preside over the republic for a five-year term. Vive la République !

french presidential election candidates

Source: Website Franc-parler http://www.francparler.org/parcours/politique_election.htm

The beautiful Dordogne Valley, France

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Named for its majestic river and beautiful valley, the department of Dordogne in south west France is one of the five departments making up the region of Aquitaine. Endowed with a soft, gentle beauty (in contrast to the dramatic extremes of Provence, for example), this region is rich with history, scenic landscapes and charming villages, and is one of France’s favorite vacation destinations. Not only a land of mystical troubadours, but one of reasonable thinkers, the area has produced such statesmen and writers as Montaigne, Fénelon, La Boétie and Montesquieu. Other interesting finds in the Dordogne:

  • St Cirq surplomb la riviere in DordogneCastles – over a thousand of them, more than any other region in France — are scattered throughout the area: Castelnaud, Montbazillac, Hautefort, Eyrignac….Many of them receive visitors, some cultivate wine, and some even have bed-and-breakfast capabilities. You’ll think you’ve entered a fairy tale!
  • Historical towns such as medieval Sarlat, Nontron and Bournat boast beautiful medieval architecture, pedestrian streets, scenic views and specialty shops. On the scenic Vézère river lies Saint Léon-sur-Vézère, which has been classified as one of the “most beautiful villages of France.” And St-Cirq Lapopie and Rocamadour, perched atop impossible cliffs, are simply breathtaking.
  • Prehistoric sites, especially in the Vézère valley, dominate the region. You’ll find the famous Lascaux cave paintings as well as other caves, troglodyte dwellings and prehistoric sculptures. Beautifully preserved and tourist-friendly, these sites make you feel like you’re in a time machine going back centuries, providing a great appreciation for our fellow mankind of yesteryear.
  • Delicious regional cuisine, combined with excellent wine, helps to clear your thinking: enjoy truffles, fois gras, duck, garlic soup, and sweet white Bergerac wines as you glide down the Dordogne River on one of the charming gabares which motor indulgently along the river.
  • Festivals are celebrated all summer long in each of the towns in the Dordogne. Likely honoring a patron saint, the town dresses itself up, hosts a parade, wine tasting, communal picnicking, a bal musette (accordion songs to which the locals dance), and good general animation. Great fun to attend and watch.

Want to practice your French while touring this beautiful area? French teachers and other francophones are welcome to join our Extension Tour to the Dordogne July 26-29, 2012 to immerse themselves in the language and culture of this region, while enjoying the subtle beauty and excellent cuisine of the Dordogne. Click here for details.

The Revolt against Fast Food in France

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When American-style fast food began to “invade” France in the late 1970s, it was deemed to be a passing fad, not able to catch on to sacrosanct traditions of leisurely French dining. How could a 20-minute hamburger & coke possibly supplant a 2-hour, 3-course lunch? Fast-forward thirty years: fast food has not gone away. It has proliferated. Surprisingly, even the French have changed and embraced sloppy food habits, falling victim in the process to some of the same ills Americans have once food becomes available 24/7.

fast food in France

The French press has written extensively about the rise of obesity amongst the usually-trim French, and has long railed that the strong French tradition of family dining and convivial meals has gradually dissipated in the face of “la malbouffe” (junk food). French fast food seems to be gaining popularity still. The stories in the press point to an increasing lack of food awareness in a nation that prides itself on its culinary traditions. The most recent and serious attack has come from Xavier Denamur, a disenchanted French chef, owner of a classic brasserie in the trendy Marais district, who saw the lowering of the 19.6% sales tax on food to a mere 5.5% as a political move by then-president Nicolas Sarkozy to salvage votes from the extreme right. The result, Denamur felt, was a devaluing of the relatively high standards of food production in France. To make his point, Denamur teamed up with director Jacques Goldstein to produce a forceful documentary against the widespread harm of junk food; “La République de la Malbouffe” is roiling the French food establishment. Watch the trailer HERE:

MacDo anyone?

French Christmas: Noel in France

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French Christmas: Noel in France

Now that Christmas is finally upon us, do you know about these Christmas traditions in France?

  • In some regions of France the Christmas season starts on December 6th, St. Nicholas Day, and is celebrated by exchanging gifts in memory of the historical 4th century saint renowned for his generosity.
  • Most French people celebrate Christmas on December 24th with a huge meal eaten after midnight mass called le réveillon, which may include: goose, turkey, chestnuts, paté de foie gras (goose liver pâté), boudin rouge (blood sausage), or boudin blanc, oysters, and of course for dessert the bûche de Noël, a rich, creamy sponge-like cake in the shape of a Yule log.
  • Tradition has it that on Christmas Eve in France, children would leave their shoes out (not stockings!) in front of the fireplace for le Père Noël to fill with treats and toys. In some regions, especially eastern France, le Père Fouettard (the “Whipping Father”) would come if children had been naughty, not nice.
  • In the south of France, people in the countryside may leave a Yule log burning in their fireplaces during the Christmas season to ensure a good harvest.
  • In Provence, the traditional meal ends with a parade of les treize desserts—the 13 desserts!
  • Most people in France do not decorate the outside of their homes; municipalities, on the other hand, adorn the public spaces with holiday lights and organize reenactments of the nativity story in town squares.
  • French families may set out a crèche, or nativity scene; in the south of France this includes santons (little saints) which are clay figurines depicting not only the holy family, shepherds and wise men, but the townspeople as well.
  • Christmas markets are another holiday tradition in France, especially in the Alsace region, where you can buy all sorts of special foods as well as arts and crafts typical for the season.
  • At Christmastime you will hear traditional carols, both religious and non-religious, such as: Il est né le divin enfant, Un flambleau Jeannette Isabelle, Vive le vent (Jingle Bells) and Mon beau sapin (Oh Christmas Tree). They even have a version of Rudolf the Red-Nosed Reindeer (Le petit renne au nez rouge…). And of course Petit papa noël sung by Tino Rossi is a Christmas favorite.
  • The Christmas season ends in early January with the feast of the Epiphany and the Fête des Rois (Feast of the Magi).

Joyeuses fêtes à tous!